Monday, March 26, 2007

A STROLL ALONG MY STREET

Come for a walk with me along my street on this fine, Sicilian Monday morning. Last week's bad weather has disappeared, spring is in the air and there is a spring, too, in my step. [There certainly wasn't last week, the dampness having triggered an arthritic flare-up so that by Thursday I could hardly walk!] Today I am going in the opposite direction to the one that leads to the Via Sacro Cuore with its fashion stores and beauty salons and I am making for the small supermarket at the far end of my own street.

On Monday mornings all but food stores, newsagents, ironmongers, stationers and florists are closed, but that does not mean that the shopkeepers are not working: some can be seen out and about doing their banking, whilst others are attending to their artistic and perfect window displays.
Passing the fresh pasta shop, I smell the dough that will soon be turned into a myriad varieties of Italy's staple food and through the window I can see tubs of bright red 'strattu on the counter. It is a little early for a queue of customers here, but in another half an hour they will come!
The wine merchant's is open and he is standing outside in the sunshine, enjoying a chat. A notice in his window announces the arrival of the new Frappato. In this shop you can take your empty mineral water bottles to be filled with a more Bacchic liquid and you can taste before you buy.

As I walk, the scent of fresh pastries wafts towards me on the breeze: I imagine sugar being sprinkled over hot biscuits and I catch just a hint of vanilla. Then, as I reach the corner of the side street where Caffè Moak has its premises, the aroma of good, fresh coffee is almost overwhelming.

The supermarket resembles an early incarnation of the genre in Britain: narrow aisles, a black and white check vinyl floor which needs replacing and untidily stacked shelves. But I find what I need and the women pack for me and are so obliging that not even the layout there can irritate me today.

On the way back, at the larger greengrocer's they are still setting out the newly delivered goods. The bananas look startlingly yellow and are hanging from a column; enormous, bright green grapes have just arrived and sacks of dried chickpeas and other pulses are stacked beside the door; above them there are boxes of fresh dates. One thing that strikes me about Sicilian greengrocers is that the price labels nearly always tell you which town the produce has come from. Come to think of it, it is usually labelled thus in supermarkets as well. I cannot resist looking in on our newer greengrocer's at the other end of the street and today his trestle table is groaning under the weight of what looks like several tons of fava beans, quite possibly the first vegetable known to man and the true herald of spring in Sicily. The greengrocer himself is busy hacking artichokes off their stalks, watched by a group of men [ and the men are incredibly discerning food shoppers here, as I've mentioned] who are waiting to see what will arrive next. The little old gentleman in a wheelchair who always greets me kindly and asks after Simi is there, too: he seems to spend most of his day there, chatting to the owner and watching the world go by.

11.30 and in the café opposite they have decided it is time to set out their arancini [stuffed rice balls] and scacce [focaccia breads] on the hot counter. I can smell them from over the road and soon you will see many Modicani stopping off there and then hurrying home with their well-wrapped antipasti. Shall I buy some? I think I should.... something fresh and warm to celebrate the freshness of spring...

In the salumeria another group of men is waiting, this time for the midday delivery of fresh bread. The first delivery arrives at 6 am., the owner has told me, and then there are several further ones throughout the day. None of these customers is going to go home with the bread of a few hours ago!
Well, I have everything so it is time to go home now. On a day like today, just a little stroll like this will remind me that there is still so much to see and marvel at right on my doorstep and that I am, after all, in the place where I want to be.

16 comments:

Anonymous said...

What a lovely picture you paint of your stroll, I can visualise you with Simi and your red lipstick and high heels, nodding and greeting passing acquaintences.

I do like your new image, btw, very chic.

James Higham said...

Ah, a stroll along a Sicily street with you, Welshcakes. And the photos of that delectable food?

Anonymous said...

That was an informative and enjoyable stroll along your street.

Welshcakes Limoncello said...

Thanks, Ellee. Oh, I go nowhere without my lippy and high heels on! Glad you like the new look - had to do it to get testimonials and so on to show on main page. [It was scary, though, and I paid a young computer man to come and help me!]
Hi, James. Glad you enjoyed the stroll. You have to be a bit careful with photos here, as everywhere, I guess: people can get fed-up with having their wares snapped all the time and I don't want to alienate anyone! [No one has said anything and I always ask permission, but still...]
Ciao, Steve. Glad you enjoyed it, too.

Liz Hinds said...

Oh, Welshcakes, what a wonderful stroll you've taken us on! Bliss. Fresh bread, mmmmm.

Lee said...

I loved this post, Welsh...your street comes alive...not with the sound of music, but with the delicious aromas of food and fresh coffee.

I'm thinking I might put a pot of coffee on...and let its aroma float throughout my cabin after reading your post.

I'm cooking linguine with a mushroom sauce later...can I wait that long! ;)

Janejill said...

I can smell the bread, and the coffee and I want to be there.... you describe the whole scene so vividly and paint a real tableau. How can you avoid putting on weight there? Now I am off to eat soemthing - maybe a ripe olive from M and S? its just not the same

jmb said...

You have a wonderful eye, WCLC and then the wonderful words to go with it. I enjoy coming here every day to get a taste of that lovely place where you have chosen to live.
Regards
jmb

Sally said...

Hi Welshcakes, I was right there with you, smelling those evocative scents and feeling that spring air. I thinks it's the smell of brioche and coffee on Italian mornings more than anything else.......

Anonymous said...

Oh, Welshcakes what a gorgeous woman you are, and what a fantastic picture you paint with words ! It is only a matter of time before the BBC sign you up so you can be featured on 'From our own correspondent' or on 'Excess baggage'. I am surprised that George Clooney hasn't invited you up to Lake Como for your holidays !

Failing that, I am sure that many of your readers will be more than happy to pop across to enjoy some good food, good wine and Sicilian sunshine...MMMmmm..Yummy..

You could publish a 'wish list' and we will indulge your needs over the summer months [although someone else will have to do the gardening as my fingers are not green]

Enjoy it now, before flippin' Te$c* decide to spoil it all...

Anonymous said...

I shall be delighted to give you a testimonial too:

"Sicily Scene brings the warm Mediterrean island to life as she vividly describes its people and customs. She is a daily read for me, a welcome diversion from the heady political mix. I regard her writing as a relaxing tonic in blogosphere. I find it hard to resist the urge to jump on a plane and experience it for myself."

Anne in Oxfordshire said...

Hello WL...what an absolutely fabulous story and what a picture it all must be!!!! How lovely not to have the hassle and bustle...and all those individual shops...What a joy.!!!!

Welshcakes Limoncello said...

Liz, thank you. Lee, I can smell the linguine and sauce from here - I'm coming over! Janejill, re avoiding putting on weight - I don't! Carpe diem. I've done all that obsessive weighing and dieting bit and to hell with it in my dotage! Jmb, thank you for your kind and encouraging words. Sally, brioche and coffee - that's just it! Anon, careful now, your words might go to my head! I'm sure I welcome anyone I can show around. I'm useless at gardening and I'm so glad just to have a balcony now! Even I can cope with a prickly pear plant and some kitchen herbs. Anne, yes, I love it but I'm such a city woman that sometimes I need the therapy of a dept store! [They are not far away, in Catania!]

Welshcakes Limoncello said...

Ellee, I am delighted with the testimonial and thank you. I have already put it in the sidebar [blimey, I did something technical!] and you have cheered my evening. Auguri dalla Sicilia from Simi and me.

Ballpoint Wren said...

One day I shall pound on your door and say, "here I am, feed me!"

Heh!

Well, don't laugh too hard, because I can eat a LOT.

Welshcakes Limoncello said...

Bonnie, you'll be a very welcome guest!

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