Wednesday, February 22, 2012

OUR JUBILEE AMBASSADOR?

This is Giovanna, an EIS student who has recently spent a few days in London.  As you see, she has come back full of enthusiasm and we think she should be Sicily's Ambassador to the Jubilee celebrations in the UK!



Giovanna also brought us some delicious, homemade chiacchiere to celebrate the end of Carnival:


Tuesday, February 21, 2012

CARNIVAL IN RAGUSA

There was son et lumière, a parade of masked figures and dancing for all at Ragusa's Carnevale nel Barocco in the city's Piazza San Giovanni on Sunday evening:







Best of all, €5.00 bought you a tray of pasta with traditional pork sauce, a hunk of local bread, a glass of red wine and a container of chiacchiere:


My, that sauce was good!

Monday, February 20, 2012

ETNA ON A CLEAR DAY

Etna's plume of ash was clearly visible from the bus on Saturday:


[Sorry about the reflection.]

Sunday, February 19, 2012

MEETING IN CATANIA

It was a great pleasure to meet my twitter friend, the catanese actress Nellina Laganà, in person in Catania yesterday.



Nellina has appeared in many plays and films, including L'Onore e il Rispetto, parte seconda and the Commissario Montalbano film, Le ali della sfinge.  Here are some more photos of Nellina:




Here's to meeting up with you again soon, Nellina!

Saturday, February 18, 2012

SABATO MUSICALE - SANREMO 2012



I am pleased to be able to report that things have gone more smoothly since my last post on this year's festival but anything could happen tonight!  We are promised more from Mr Celentano, by the way, but have been told that his appearance will be limited to 30 minutes, to include three songs.  At least he hasn't got a tattoo - that I know of....

Here is my pick of the songs left in the competition:

On the first night, I immediately liked this song and its singer but I'm not sure that another philosophical song can win:  

Eugenio Finardi - E tu lo chiami Dio


Link in case embedding is disabled

The words "I don't give names to things that are greater than I am" appeal to me.

Then I decided that this would also be a worthy winner:

Noemi - Sono solo parole



Link in case embedding is diasabled

And on Wednesday I took a liking to this song, written by its performers:

Pierdavide Carone e Lucio Dalla - Nani


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This is a strong contender too:

Arisa - La notte


Link in case embedding is disabled

The hairstyle-trend-setting singer Emma Marrone, usually known just as Emma, is popular with young people so she may well win, though her song would not be my choice:

Emma - Non è L'Inferno


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I'm afraid I don't like the hot pants either - they were a cruel fashion the first time around and they are a cruel fashion now. They remind me of this:

Clodagh Rogers - Jack in the Box - Eurovision 1971




Gosh, was it that long ago?!

And I have to mention Chiara Civello, who was born in Rome to Modican parents and whom I have seen live in concert here. Tony Bennett has described her as "the best jazz singer of her generation". Her song was eliminated last night but it is rather pretty:

Chiara Civello - Al posto del mondo


Link in case embedding is disabled

Well, I'm off to watch the rest of the show and vote!  Hope you enjoy it if you can watch from where you are and, if you can't, that you will like the clips.

May the best song win.

UPDATE - 19.2.12 at 01.19

And the winner is.... Emma.

So now we can all go back to talking about the euro.


Friday, February 17, 2012

ORANGE CHICKEN




The simplest recipes are the best and this one for pollo all'arancia, from a regional cookbook that came with a newspaper, is fantastic!  Unusually, for a Sicilian recipe, it used butter instead of olive oil and the other ingredients are orange juice and rind, lemon juice, sage, garlic, a little flour and white wine.  The sprigs of rosemary are added at the end of cooking.


Naturally, I am of the opinion that it's the taste of Sicilian oranges that makes the dish so delicious!

Thursday, February 16, 2012

SANREMO 2012



Judging by the twitter feeds on Tuesday night, Italians were not impressed by the opening evening of the 62nd Sanremo Music Festival.  Of course, it could be that online I attract, and am attracted to, people who are as cynical as I am but it has to be said that a lot was going wrong on the Ariston stage:

Presenter Gianni Morandi was being assisted by actor, singer and comic Rocco Papaleo and the glamour was supposed to have been provided by the Czech model Ivana Mrazova but, the young lady being unwell, last year's assistants, Elisabetta Canalis and Belén Rodriguez, were drafted in at the last minute.  Now I don't mind the ex-nearly-Mrs-Clooney, who has an unexpected comic talent, but I can't stand Rodriguez and I don't know of a woman who can.  More of her later.

Then the electronic voting system refused to work and the in-studio jury members were forced to use pen and paper. Worst of all, the much trumpeted and eagerly awaited appearance of veteran singer Adriano Celentano was well-nigh disastrous:  Celentano, whose contract apparently stated that he could more or less do what he liked, did so, giving a long speech in which he suggested that two Catholic magazines and Corriere della Sera should close and launched a personal attack on one of the newspaper's critics. Thus Rai found itself apologising to the Catholic bishops and the boards of the unfortunate publications yesterday morning and such was the media outcry that the organisation's deputy director was dispatched to Sanremo to oversee the rest of the festival.  This, in turn, gave rise to the headline, "Sanremo commissariato!" in most newspapers today.  In my opinion, Adriano Celentano should have stuck to singing for he is no Roberto Benigni and his worst offence was to have bored everybody to tears.

Gianni Morandi, however, had reason to be pleased with himself as the show had gained a record 50% of the audience share - until, that is, the second evening on Wednesday, when the viewing figures fell dramatically.  There was a moment, however, when they are reported to have soared, and that was when Rodriguez glided down a staircase wearing a long dress slit to the groin and designed to reveal a butterfly tattoo right there. I could just imagine the eyes of every man in Italy popping out with the possible exception of those poor male souls already exhausted by discussion of Rodriguez's cleavage, which appeared smaller on Wednesday night than it had on Tuesday.  Men are so innocent in some ways, aren't they, girls? They have no idea what a good bra can do.... 

Thankfully, on Wednesday, Ms Mrazova arrived so hopefully we have seen the back of Rodriguez.  After all, we've seen everything else and I don't know why she doesn't just appear nude and have done with it.   But there was more trouble in store for Morandi, who might have been about to breathe a sigh of relief, and this came in the form of a comic duo called I Soliti Idioti.  These two performed an unfunny sketch about homosexuality and press-ganged an obviously uncomfortable Morandi into presiding over a mock "marriage ceremony" on stage.  Then Morandi made the mistake of declaring, several times, that he "has nothing against gays but...", thus offending the entire gay community.  From his press comments this morning, he obviously doesn't understand why and this evening has been saying that he "loves gays".  Poor Gianni - he does try!  He is much loved in Italy so there is no doubt that he will be forgiven.

Tonight, I am glad to say, has gone better as it is Viva l'Italia! evening and the competition singers are performing, with guest stars from different countries, Italian songs which have had worldwide success.  With Patti Smith, Brian May, Sergio Dalma, Lucio Dalla, José Feliciano and Macy Gray among the guest performers, this has been a successful evening with several standing ovations.

Oh! I almost forgot - the competition songs!  Most of them seem a little lacklustre to me but there are two that I am rooting for. I'll tell you more about these on Saturday.

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

WHAT SMELL TAKES YOU BACK? - A "LET'S BLOG OFF POST"


Every two weeks, the blogosphere comes alive with something called a Blog Off. A Blog Off is an event where bloggers of every stripe weigh in on the same topic on the same day. The topic for this round of the Blog Off is "What smell takes you back?"

In the book Une Gourmandise [Gourmet Rhapsody] by the French novelist Muriel Barbery a famous but unloved food critic lies dying.  Before he shuffles off this mortal coil, he wants to experience a certain taste sensation again.  The trouble is, he can't remember what it is.....

I think it's often like that with smells.  They can be very elusive but also very evocative and, once we identify them, they can take us as far back in time as we can remember.  For a couple of years here I'd been sniffing numerous tester perfumes in an attempt to find .... what?  That's just it - I didn't really know what aroma I was searching for but my longing for whatever it was became like a thirst.  I have a theory that this is partly a result of not having been in my own country for a long time.  Then one day I realised:  as a child I spent my holidays on the beach in Paignton, Devonshire and my Dad used to buy "Devon Violets" perfume for my mum, whose name was Violet.



I was last in Devonshire as a teenager in 1964 but any smell that is similar to "Devon Violets" takes me right back there:

Me at the Model Village in Babbacombe, Devon

Most of you know that I'm an avid reader and the smell and feel of books fascinate me almost as much as  their content. At school and at university I loved the smell of French Livre de Poche editions and I still do:



Then there are the smells I miss on an almost daily basis and one of these, during this particularly cold winter even in Sicily, is that of warmth. [Not heat - we get plenty of that in summer - but warmth!] Houses here can be very cold because so much heat is lost through long windows and balcony doors which are not double-glazed.  Many Sicilians are reluctant to switch their central heating on, preferring to wear numerous layers of clothing even at home so it is often colder inside than out.  I miss the all-enveloping warmth of a well-heated British home and the welcoming smell of that warmth.

I can't say I miss the smell of Cardiff's black beer wafting over the city from the brewery, though and I'd much rather inhale the aroma of freshly roasted coffee beans which fills Modica's Sorda district on certain mornings - not for much longer, though, as Caffè Moak is planning to transfer its headquarters to Pozzallo.

The aroma of Welshcakes cooking on a flat griddle was the smell of home to me as a child, in an era when women had weekly "baking days" and there were always homemade cakes for tea.  Here I manage to make Welshcakes on a pan called a testo romagnolo and I'll be preparing my next batch on St David's Day [March 1st].

My testo romagnolo - take off the lid and rack
 and you have the perfect flat griddle!

Welshcakes - Sicilian style

What are the smells I most closely associate with Italy?  The unmistakeable aroma of vanilla as you pass any pasticceria and, in Sicily, the lovely perfume of the jasmine flower - which is not unlike that of "Devon Violets".



Below is the full list of bloggers participating in this week's theme:

Tuesday, February 14, 2012

A SAGRA FOR ALL




My friend Carol King and I nearly backed out of a coach trip to Agrigento on Sunday when an 05.30 departure was announced but we decided that we really did want to attend the 67th Sagra del Mandorlo in Fiore [Almond Blossom Festival] so up we got and off we went.

When the coaches arrived at our boarding point we were both somewhat disconcerted to see people loading enormous bags and even suitcases into the luggage compartment and wondered what could be in them as this wasn't a trip with an overnight stay.  Then we saw some familiar shapes covered in special waxed paper being carefully placed on top of the bags and we understood:  our travelling companions had been loading their packed lunches!  Every Sunday they go to the pasticceria to buy trays of pastries and why should this Sunday have been any different just because they were going on a trip?

To be honest, I had been hoping for a good nap on the four-hour journey and had thought my fellow-passengers would be feeling the same.  However, they were all remarkably chirpy.  By 8 am an animated discussion about how to make the best pane di casa [homemade bread] was in full swing with the men confidently contributing what they assured us were the most reliable cooking tips.

Luck was with us weather-wise and the sun was shining on Agrigento's honey-coloured temples as we approached the Valle dei Templi.  When I saw Concordia in all its breathtaking glory I felt as I always do in Akrigas - as though I have finally come home.



Once we had disembarked Carol firmly steered me past the market traders with their tempting trinkets and on we walked to the town centre where the processions would shortly be taking place.  Everything had been well organised and the parade began only half an hour late, which is excellent in these parts.

First came the bersaglieri, playing a fanfare.  One cannot, of course, take photos of the bersaglieri for public display but I thought you would like to admire the magnificent hat worn by this fine gentleman from one of their benevolent associations:



Then came these jolly folk:



Band after band appeared:







There were knights aplenty



and who needs to go to London for the Jubilee?



Our friends from across the pond were not forgotten





and folk groups from all over the world joined the procession.

The flag-throwers performed amazing feats:  up and up went the flags, time after time, and time after time they were expertly caught:




Suddenly it was time for lunch by a shimmering sea:




Afterwards, on the coach, everyone was offered a glass of Limoncello by the tour organisers.

And so to the highlight of the day - the performances by international folk groups and prize-giving ceremony in the Valle dei Templi with the Temple of Concordia as the backdrop.  Now my days of clambering up Sicilian hillsides like a mountain goat are over so I couldn't get high enough or close enough to get good shots of the performers but I hope at least to give you a flavour of the multicultural nature of the event:





As I watched both performers and spectators from my perch atop a stone, I realised that here was Italy at its greatest: there has to be hope for a country where so many young people can gather peacefully and joyfully to watch such an event taking place in front of a building which has stood for 2,500 years.  It didn't matter that they weren't always listening; what mattered was that they had come. There were also elderly folk like me, people nel mezzo del cammin della vita, babies and dogs.  Everyone was welcome at Agrigento yesterday.

The Agrigento Almond Blossom Festival began in 1934 in the town of Naro, where its aim was to celebrate spring by giving farm workers a day off and some fun.  Later the Festival was moved to Agrigento and over the years, the word spread, not only in the rest of Italy but around the world.  The white almond blossom represents peace and friendship and it is in this spirit that people from many countries meet and find "concord".

An added attraction this year has been a collection of sculptures by Igor Mitoraj.  These bronze "giants of mythology" have been placed around the temples and are on display until 20th February.







We left the lovely Valle at sunset, having enjoyed a truly international festival in the most beautiful of settings.

Everyone has their own vision of eternity.  This is mine:

Agrigento - Tempio di Concordia

Agrigento - Tempio di Ercole

Saturday, February 11, 2012

SABATO MUSICALE

We haven't heard from the lovely Patrizio Buanne lately, so, for all you romantic souls out there, here he is with an Italian version of Only You:

Patrizio Buanne - Only You

Friday, February 10, 2012

WHEN IN ROME [OR LONDON] ....

A paisi unni chi vai, comu vidi fari fai.
- Sicilian proverb

When in Rome, do as the Romans do.

When Fabio Capello was appointed manager of the England football team in 2007, he promised to learn to speak English within one month.  As I said then, such a feat is not possible and subsequent events have proved it.

If you want to learn to speak a foreign language fluently and correctly, some formal study is essential as well as spending time in the target language country .  Yes, it is true that you can pick up a "street" version of the language you wish to learn quite quickly but you will probably not be speaking in what linguists call "appropriate registers".  Appropriate registers, in languages like French, Italian and Spanish, are often demonstrated by which form of the pronoun "you" the speaker chooses to use and in most languages the way in which the speaker greets different people is important:  in my town, Cardiff, UK, I would often greet acquaintances or friends I saw on the bus with a colloquial "Hiya, love" but I would not have said "Hiya, love" to a client, my bank manager or my employer and certainly not to my Queen!  At other times, more complicated situations arise.

This, then, is one of the communication problems that Mr Capello might have faced during his time as England manager and we haven't even touched upon the vexed subject of grammar!  Of course, with interpreters and others available 24/7 to help him, Mr Capello was better placed than most to do without those English lessons but his lack of proficiency in the language cannot have helped when he found himself in an off-pitch situation which required patience, subtlety and diplomacy.

For readers who are not from the UK or Italy, I'll summarise what has happened:  The England team's captain, John Terry, had been accused, in November, of racist abuse of another player, Anton Ferdinand.  A court hearing was scheduled and everyone thought that the outcome would be known by April at the latest but early this month the hearing was adjourned until 9th July.  Because of this the Football Association, the sport's governing body in England, took the decision to strip John Terry of the captaincy and they informed Mr Capello of this decision last Thursday evening before making a public announcement.

Mr Capello was apparently upset that the FA had made this decision without consulting him and is reported to have said that his authority had been undermined.  Then, in an interview shown on Italian television on Sunday evening he stated - calmly and with some eloquence, I have to say - that as John Terry has not yet been proven guilty in a court of law, he should have been allowed  to remain as captain.

The FA board were, naturally, in turn upset that Mr Capello had spoken on Italian television without consulting them and, at a meeting held yesterday, Mr Capello resigned, with no rancour having been displayed on either side, we are told.

So there we have it:  both parties feel that the other has "gone above their head" and both feel aggrieved.  As the FA states on its website that,

"We are committed to making football accessible to everyone, regardless of race, religion, gender, sexuality, background or ability"

it is hard to know what else its board could have done, given the seriousness of the allegations. Yet, as Mr Capello pointed out in his Rai interview, the allegations are exactly that at the moment. 

Now, as many of you will know, I am not in the least interested in football.  What I am interested in, however,  are the ways in which the matter is being reported in the UK and in Italy:  In the British press the fact that Mr Capello learned little English is being emphasised and the feeling is that his employers, who were paying him a cool £6 million a year, could have justifiably hoped for more linguistic enthusiasm.   And at least one British newspaper has alluded to the fact that Mr Capello "seemed to be on holiday a lot", thus echoing a culture clash between Northern and Southern Europe that we have sometimes seen during the euro crisis.

In Italy, on the other hand, most of the coverage has focused on the fact that a man who has not yet been tried has, nevertheless, been punished and that this could have happened without consultation with his line manager.  Most people I have spoken to here have also expressed incredulity regarding this "sentence without a trial."

Mr Capello looks tired to me and I am sure that he is glad to be home, having taken the first possible flight out of London. But I can't help feeling that, had he learned more English and consequently been able to absorb more British culture, he would have gained a better understanding of how the FA, and Britain itself, work.  His stay in my native land might also have been a happier one.

Wednesday, February 08, 2012

VEAL STEW WITH HAIRY COURGETTES



As Italy freezes and evening temperatures plunge even in Sicily, a comforting stew is called for.   I hesitate to mention veal at times, but it is more popular than beef in Italy and that is that. This recipe is based on the Spezzatino di vitello con verdure in Il Cucchiaio d'Argento but as usual, I've added a few of my own touches:



Heat 2 tablesp olive oil with 50 gr butter in a wide pan and soften 1 large, chopped white onion in it. Flour 1 kg cubed veal - in Italy the butchers cut it specially for spezzatino - and add the pieces to the pan.  Brown them on all sides, stirring. Add the contents of a 680 gr bottle of passata or the same amount of homemade tomato sauce and season. Stir well and after five minutes or so, add 100 gr carrots cut into thin sticks. Cook for 15 mins more and then add 250 gr mixed mushrooms, 2 sliced ordinary or what I call "hairy courgettes" [zucchine verdi] - the hairy courgettes taste just the same but will give you bigger slices and, of course, you have to peel them!  Cover the pan and cook for about an hour, checking and stirring occasionally. Add a little water if the stew seems too dry.  

Tuesday, February 07, 2012

ANOTHER JUBILEE



Congratulations to Modica's Antica Dolceria Bonajuto upon its inclusion in the "golden list" in Sua Eccellenza Italia, a volume published in December by Gambero Rosso, the multimedia food and wine publishing group, in celebration of its 25th anniversary.   

The citation reads,

"There is no gourmand who does not know of Modican chocolate and they will know of it because of Bonajuto, Sicily's leading chocolate makers, who continue to excel in their work after almost 150 years."

Monday, February 06, 2012

A DIFFERENT TIRAMISU

Regular readers may remember that a recipe I very much like making is the strawberry tiramisù in Matthew Fort's book, Sweet Honey, Bitter Lemons.  I have also adapted this dish successfully to apricots.  But when I saw a recipe for tiramisù alle banane in the January edition of Vero Cucina magazine, I admit I was hesitant.  However, I gave it a try and was very pleasantly surprised by the result:



The bananas are sautéed with a little butter and sugar before being layered with the crushed savoiardi biscuits and other ingredients and, as I don't like the taste of rum, I moistened the savoiardi crumbs with a little fichi d'India [prickly pear] liqueur.  If you don't want to use alcohol, I imagine fresh orange juice would be a good substitute.  That's freshly ground cinnamon over the top and, as it's carnival time in Italy, I decided a little colour around the edge of the dish was necessary and served it with chiacchiere.  I couldn't resist using  chocolate letters to wish everyone a good February and, if you are thinking that the second b in febbraio looks a bit odd, you'd be right - I'd run out of b letters and had to use two p ones with their tails nicked off!

Rosa and her daughter were the testers on Saturday and they pronounced the dish magnifico!

Saturday, February 04, 2012

SABATO MUSICALE

For oppressed women everywhere.  Thank you for the reminder, jams.

The Weavers - Hay una mujer desaparecida

Friday, February 03, 2012

CARNIVAL TIME AGAIN

Every year, at around this time, I show you chiacchiere, the wafer-thin biscuits made in this period and I have convinced myself that I can get away with eating more of these smaller, ribbon-shaped ones!



Chiacchierare is the verb "to gossip" and the biscuits are so named either because their shape resembles that of old women's tongues or, more likely, because of the "psst" sound they make when the pastry is dropped into the hot oil.

Thursday, February 02, 2012

MORE PATIENCE AMONG THIEVES

In September I told you all about a thief who, in order to steal a bicycle, patiently felled the tree to which it had been tied.  Now his efforts have been topped by a group of thieves in the Ragusan countryside, reports the Corriere di Ragusa: these thieves have been chopping down telephone poles in order to steal copper telephone cable and 2 kilometres of cable have disappeared recently, causing disruption to lines as well as economic loss   to Telecom Italia.  Fifteen instances of cable theft have been reported in the area since the beginning of January and last year over 15 kilometres of cable were stolen.

One would think that such thoroughness would be welcomed in certain legitimate jobs.

Wednesday, February 01, 2012

MEDITERRANEAN COBBLER

No, not a Modican shoe repairer but my name for a new dish I've invented!  The inspiration for this dish is the recipe for "Syrian Chicken" in Diane Seed's Top 100 Mediterranean Dishes, of which I think this may be an updated edition.



Here's how I've Italianised the dish:

4 - 5 loaves Sicilian pane arabo or other flattish bread
0.75 kg chicken breast fillets
1 medium white onion
2 Sicilian or unwaxed lemons
1 jar grilled peppers
6 tablesp olive oil
c. 1 tablesp dried oregano
seasalt and freshly ground black pepper

Pre-heat the oven to 180 C and lightly oil a large, rectangular Pyrex-type dish.
Cut half the loaves in half lengthwise and line the bottom of the dish with them, crusty side down.
Slice the onion into rings and lay these on top of the bread.
Slice the lemons as thinly as you can and lay the slices of one of them on top of the onions.
Season with salt, pepper and some dried oregano.
Now lay all the chicken pieces on top of the lemons and season them in the same way.
Next, cover the chicken with the [not too enthusiastically] drained peppers and the slices of the other lemon.
Drizzle over half the olive oil.
Cover everything with the rest of the bread, sliced to more or less fit the dish, crusty side up.
Drizzle over the rest of the olive oil, cover the dish with foil and cook for 50 mins.
When the dish is ready, the bread will be impregnated with the aromatic juices and the chicken will be meltingly tender.



Enjoy.

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