Wednesday, July 09, 2014

SUMMER TIDES - 5

The saddest news I have to report tonight is that, when the migrant boat involved in last week's tragedy was finally brought to Pozzallo, 45, not 27 or 30, bodies were found, jammed into the hold.  Four men have beern arrested by Sicilian police on suspicion of people trafficking.  Last Wednesday the front page of La Sicilia carried the headline "Mare Mortum".

On Sunday night around 100 migrants, including women and children, arrived on Ispica beach. It was the usual story: an inadequate boat carrying them had managed to elude patrols, brought them within sight of the beach, forced them into the water and then made a fast getaway.  Let us hope that no one drowned.

It is estimated that 2,600 migrants were saved by the Italian Navy and other Mare Nostrum operatives over the weekend. Premier Renzi has again said that the operation must continue but with EU support:

"It is not possible, in 2014, to let a ship full of children sink because we don't know whose jurisdiction it is in.  We save them."

The week has seen several protests in Sicily by both residents and migrants: The inhabitants of Siculiana [Agrigento] protested against the sheer numbers of migrants arriving in their small town but things seem to have calmed down for the moment now that the Mayor has had a meeting with Interior Minister Angelino Alfano, who listened to her concerns. Mr Alfano promised that the number of arrivals in the town would be carefully regulated and gave assurances regarding public health. He also said that the EU at last appears to be realising that Italy, and especially Sicily, cannot take sole responsibility for the migrants after they have been rescued.

Yesterday in Caltagirone, where 110 unaccompanied migrant minors have been living in overcrowded and quite insanitary conditions, the situation exploded. The young migrants destroyed furniture and broke glass in their centre, then set up street blocks nearby. Who can blame them? They say they cannot maintain personal hygiene in these conditions, that they do not have enough drinking water [temperatures in Sicily are reaching 40 C now ] and that their meals are served cold. They also say they do not have enough clothing and are not given any spending money - to which, as asylum seekers, they are entitled - or phone cards. They only want to be listened to but at the moment have no access to anyone who might understand their problems.

As I write, Sicily waits: a Libyan politician said last week that at least 3 million migrants are preparing to leave Libya in an attempt to reach Italian shores during the summer.

Saturday, July 05, 2014

SABATO MUSICALE

At no. 12 in the Italian singles chart this week is this pleasant song from Francesco Renga:

Francesco Renga - Il mio giorno più bello del mondo

Friday, July 04, 2014

SUMMER ITALIAN COURSES IN MODICA!

I am re-posting this because there is still time to sign up for these courses!




At London Town, Modica - Centro Linguistico Internazionale we are very happy to be able to announce that, in partnership with Vacanze Craunari, we are offering Italian courses this summer:

Italian for English Speakers
€450,00 per person

Course dates:
31 August - 7 September
7 September - 14 September

Price includes:
7 nights in a shared apartment
12-hour Italian course
7 breakfasts

Services available upon payment of a supplement [must be pre-booked]:
Lunch
Dinner
Airport or port transfers




If you are already in Modica or have planned your trip and would like to learn Italian, London Town, Modica - Centro Linguistico Internazionale also has the following summer offers:

ENGLISH SPEAKER IN MODICA?
LEARN ITALIAN THIS SUMMER!

Summer offers – courses from €160!

8-hour and 12-hour courses
July, August or September, 2 or 3 hours per week
Tailored to your needs
Minimum:  group of 2

36-hour course
July, August and September
Tailored to your needs
Pay for 2 months and get one month FREE!!
Minimum:  group of 2

Individual courses can also be arranged.

Call Pat at the Centre now!
[0039] 0932 905642  /  +39 366 119 6467



PARLA ITALIANO QUEST’ESTATE!





SPEAK ITALIAN THIS SUMMER!



Wednesday, July 02, 2014

A SURPRISE FROM WALES

It had been a long time since the postwoman brought me something pleasant so imagine my delight today when a completely unexpected package arrived from Britain. It contained goodies from my friend Carol King, who last week visited Wales for the first time:

The coloured card shows three very woolly sheep and says, "Rush hour in Abergavenny".  Below it are three fridge magnets - Cardiff Castle, the cutest dragon and a "Patricia" magnet with a picture of a daffodil.  The other cards have the text of the Lord's Prayer in Welsh and in Italian. Perhaps now my students will believe me when I tell them that the Welsh language is completely different from English! The slate beermat says, "Happiness is having Welsh friends."  Happiness is also having friends like Carol!




I loved the television series Call the Midwife so I was very happy to receive this book as well. I can't wait to read it!

Thank you, Carol.

Tuesday, July 01, 2014

A KING IN TAORMINA



Elvis Presley has had, since his death, a habit of turning up in the most unlikely places and I was always disappointed not to find him packing my supermarket bags in Britain. But now here he is in Taormina and it's just possible that the town will be "all shook up"!

From now until 21st September visitors to Taormina will be able to see, at the Palacongressi in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, a travelling exhibition, approved by the Presley family, of objects from Graceland. Taormina is the only European venue for the exhibition this summer.

Among the items on display are:  some of Elvis's guitars, stage and personal clothing, letters, gold discs and other awards, autographs and - the star of the show - his last Fleetwood Brougham Cadillac with its 1 - Elvis numberplate. A special Elvis a Taormina postmark has been created for the occasion and on 16th August and 20th September there will be concerts by the Elvis impersonator Joe Bavota.

I cannot possibly close this post without a song from the "king". As far as I know, apart from Santa Lucia, Elvis did not record any songs in Italian but we do have this, which was and is successful precisely because it is not an attempt at a direct translation

Elvis Presley - Now or Never



In case you missed it, I wrote some years ago about what Elvis meant to me in my youth.

Monday, June 30, 2014

SUMMER TIDES - 4: A TRAGEDY

This is being reported by the world's media this morning but I'll try to give you the view from here:

In one of several migrant rescue operations carried out by the Italian Navy last night, 27 - 30 migrants were found dead in the hold of a fishing boat carrying up to 600 people, including two pregnant women. It is thought that the migrants died of asphyxiation. By the time the naval ship Grecale arrived on the scene, there was nothing the personnel could do for these poor souls and, because of the position in the boat that the bodies were in, only two were transferred to the larger ship. The boat, carrying the living and the dead, is being towed to Pozzallo as I write. 

La Repubblica is reporting that 919 migrants have arrived in Pozzallo overnight and many more in other Sicilian ports. Over this weekend alone, 5,000 migrants were rescued at sea in the Mare Nostrum operation and it is estimated that 60,000 have arrived in Sicily since the beginning of this year. The possibility of 100,000 arrivals by the end of the year has not been ruled out.

The Mayor of Pozzallo, Luigi Ammatuna, a man who has always expressed sympathy for and solidarity with the migrants, has said that the situation has become unmanageable, as the town's Cpa [centre for migrant arrivals] is full and the administration is having to rely on other institutions to accommodate them. Even the cemetery is full and there are now only two mortuary cold chambers available. The Prefect of Ragusa has promised that a plan will be put into operation to relieve the pressure on Pozzallo.

Lega Nord Federal secretary Matteo Salvini has said this morning that Premier Renzi and Interior Minister Angelino Alfano have "blood on their hands" because the Mare Nostrum operation is encouraging migrants to leave Africa.

Italy's calls for international help in the migration crisis continue to fall on largely deaf ears. Frontex [the European Border Agency] is to be strengthened but there has been no new EU agreement on asylum, as requested by Italy. The Italian government believes that the Dublin Regulation, under which the country of arrival is responsible for any asylum application by a migrant, puts too much pressure on border areas. Italy has also suggested that migrants be processed whilst still in Africa.

As politicians score points, let us remember the migrants who lost their lives last night whilst in search only of the rights and comforts that most of us enjoy without question.


Update at 15.09: A video just published by La Repubblica shows that the 600 migrants were jammed into a space of 30 metres on the fishing boat.

Saturday, June 28, 2014

SABATO MUSICALE

It's over a year since we heard from the lovely Mr Patrizio Buanne on this blog so let's put that right with this: 

Patrizio Buanne - Sorridi [Smile]

Friday, June 27, 2014

BOOK REVIEW - "LA MIA CASA E PIENA DI SPECCHI"

When I first settled in Italy and started watching Italian cookery programmes, I wondered who the striking, well-dressed woman who often appeared as a judge was, for there was something very familiar about her. Then I saw  her surname on the credits - SCICOLONE - and this was familiar too. Scicolone, Scicolone.... of course! This was the birth surname of Sophia Loren and Anna Maria Villani Scicolone is her sister.

In Britain, as an Italian teacher who had always followed the Italian news, I knew of the politician Alessandra Mussolini but I hadn't realised who her mother was. Anna Maria Scicolone's first husband was the dictator's fourth son, the jazz musician Romano Mussolini and Alessandra is their daughter. The marriage failed, largely due to Romano Mussolini's womanising but it is clear from Maria Scicolone's writing that she always held him in great affection.

I decided to find out more about Maria Scicolone and my chance came when the film of her autobiography, La mia casa è piena di specchi, [My House is Full of Mirrors] was shown on Italian TV a couple of years ago. In this film, Sophia Loren plays her own mother. This was not the first time she had done so, for there is an English language film of her life [Sophia Loren - Her Own Story], but this Italian version focusses on Maria's story.

After I had seen the film, I read Maria Scicolone's book of the same name and found it a fascinating and very honest tale: It is not a chronological  autobiography but is divided into chapters describing the sisters' young lives in Pozzuoli [Campania], their relationship with their determined but domineering mother, Sophia's rise to fame and Maria's struggles to obtain an education and be known as someone other than "the sister."

Maria, like Sophia, was the illegitimate child of Romilda Villani and Riccardo Scicolone but, whilst Riccardo recognised Sophia as his child, he refused to acknowledge paternity of Maria, who had to be locked away in her bedroom during his visits and saw him only through the keyhole. But there came a time, some years later, when Riccardo needed money. Romilda said she would help him if he would recognise Maria as his child and thus it was that she took the Scicolone surname.

Romilda and Maria had a troubled relationship, as mothers and daughters often do, but they loved one another dearly. Romilda didn't want Maria to continue with her studies before she was legitimised, because of the shame this might have brought upon the family, and afterwards she seemed to have thought it was too late and was also probably jealous. Maria, though, was, in her way, as determined as her mother and went on to obtain a degree in literature in 1976.

Maria often travelled with Sophia and Carlo Ponti and in Hollywood became interested in cookery. She writes of the friendships she formed with several Hollywood stars, including Cary Grant and Frank Sinatra and later she wrote a recipe book based on the meals she had enjoyed at their homes.

I was fascinated by Maria's account of her relationship with Benito Mussolini's widow,  the formidable Donna Rachele, who seems to have had a soft spot for the naive and lonely young girl and taught Maria to cook the dishes of her region.

Hospitalised for depression after her divorce, Maria fell in love with her doctor and has a happy second marriage.  

My one issue with the book is the lack, on Maria's part, of any censure of her deceased father-in-law's political ideas. That said, "Sophia Loren's sister", as she was known for so long, might have appeared, to the world, to have everything. This book charts her long and difficult search for autonomy. 

La mia casa è piena di specchi - wedding scene

Tuesday, June 24, 2014

SILENZIO



As Simi and I went for our walk at about 7pm the streets were eerily quiet.  There was, of course, a certain football match being played far away and, while some shops had closed early, others were darkened and empty with only the sound of a radio or TV commentary indicating the presence inside of their owners. Even the man who sells cherries from his lorry had deserted his post!  

The silence was even eerier after the game but, on twitter, social networks and on TV, shock has turned into indignation and most of it is being directed at the player who appears to have bitten an Italian defender. I will say only that, if my dog were to bite someone, the consequences would be dire, so I don't see why they shouldn't be for a footballer.

I'm sorry that Mr Prandelli, the Italian coach, feels he has to resign, because I did like his suits and the style with which he wore them.  Now I read that the president of the Italian Football Federation is resigning too. Perhaps a few Italian politicians should take note.

Monday, June 23, 2014

SUMMER TIDES - 3

In reporting what has become an almost daily toll of migrant deaths at sea, I am reminded of this quote from Camus in La Peste:

"Mais qu'est-ce que cent millions de morts?" ["What are 100 million deaths?"]

What he meant, I believe, was that in war, epidemic and other such catastrophes the deaths become so many that we stop being able to imagine their meaning.

In the early hours of yesterday 104 migrants, all male, were rescued by the Italian Coast Guard from a dinghy about 54 miles off Lampedusa. Another 302 migrants were rescued in two separate operations in the Sicilian Channel and have been taken to the Port of Augusta. On board the rescue ship there was also a body, already decomposing, which had been found off the Maltese coast. This poor soul probably lost his or her life on one of the many other migrant boats that had got into trouble in the past few weeks.  Today four alleged people traffickers have been arrested by Italian police in connection with this death.

Interior Minister Angelino Alfano, visiting Pozzallo last week, promised help to Sicily's prefects and mayors in dealing with the migrants and said that a task force on the implications for public health will be set up. He also said, rightly, that all of Europe should recognise the sterling work being done by Italy in saving migrant lives.

Matteo Salvini of the Lega Nord, however, wants Operazione Mare Nostrum stopped immediately and says the money spent on it should be diverted to Africa to stop migrants leaving in the first place. This sounds eminently reasonable until you start to wonder exactly how this could be done and how, in certain unstable states, one could be sure of where the funds would be directed and how they would be used.

On 20th June, World Refugee Day, Laura Boldrini, President of the Italian Chamber of Deputies, said in Siracusa, on board the naval ship the San Giorgio, which has been involved in many rescue operations, that Mare Nostrum operatives should be proud because nothing is more important than saving lives. She also said that other EU states are taking in refugees but are not helping in rescuing people at sea. She thanked Sicilians and their local councils for the work they are doing, proving, she added, that

"Italy is a great country which has not allowed itself to be devoured by selfishness in the face of the economic crisis."

Saturday, June 21, 2014

SABATO MUSICALE

The wonderful Monsieur Aznavour appears at the Foro Italico in Rome on Tuesday, so, certainly not for the first time on this blog, here is a great favourite with his Italian fans. Can you listen to this without crying? I can't! [He does sing an Italian version but I don't think it has the poignancy of the original French.]

Charles Aznavour - Que c'est triste, Venise


Rome, according to the Italian press, is at the moment in tilt due to the arrival of those eternal bad boys, The Rolling Stones, who will be cavorting around the stage of the Circo Massimo tomorrow night. Here's my favourite Stones song, also about lost love:

The Rolling Stones - Tell Me [You're Coming Back]

Friday, June 20, 2014

TAGLIATA WITH CHERRIES

The cherry harvest continues and the other day, I decided I wanted to experiment by using some with a tagliata [the sirloin cut]. I know all you Italians will be horrified again at such a mixture of sweet and savoury ingredients, which you claim you never use together, so please, look away now! 

There are also days when I long for some of the Middle Eastern flavours I used in my cooking in Britain and that is why I came up with the idea of using rosewater in the dressing.

The dish turned out well so, for the brave among you. this is what I did:




Ask the butcher for a 600 gr piece of tagliata [if you are in Italy] or sirloin if you are elsewhere.  A few hours before you want to serve the salad, lightly oil the tagliata on both sides, place it on a heated, ridged griddle pan and cook it on both sides to your liking. [I like mine medium rare for a salad.]  Take it out of the pan and leave it to cool on a cutting board. When it has cooled sufficiently, slice it diagonally into fairly wide strips and put in the fridge.

Destalk 500 gr  ready-washed spinach leaves. Tear them if they are very large and put them in the fridge. 

Cook 8 slices frozen, grilled aubergine as directed on the pack and put in the fridge when cool. [You can, of course, grill your own if you have time but let them dry on kitchen paper if you do.]

Wash, stone and halve about 20 cherries and chill these, too.

Now make the dressing:  In a small bowl, mix the following ingredients well with a fork:  5 tablesp olive oil, 3 teasp culinary rosewater, seasalt and black pepper to taste and a few chilli flakes.  Leave the dressing to chill in the fridge.

When you are ready to assemble the salad, put the spinach on a large serving platter, then add the aubergine slices and, on top of these, the tagliata slices, some torn fresh basil leaves and the cherries.  Give the dressing a final, robust stir with a fork, then drizzle it over the salad and serve.

Serves 4.

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

SUMMER WONDERS

I'm always cheered by the arrival of these mini-pears and I'm rather sentimentally attached to them because they were the main Sicilian fruit in season when I first came to live here, just over nine years ago:




As some of you may remember, the tabacchiere peaches [named for their snuffbox-like shape] are my favourite summer fruit of all:


When the angurie [watermelons] start falling off the fruit vans, we'll know that summer is in full swing!

Tuesday, June 17, 2014

MORE ITALIAN LOGIC

Yesterday in the bank there were - I kid you not - around 200 people waiting and just two functioning counters. People were standing around in small groups, chatting and complaining, but no one complained to a person in a position to do anything about it.  This was probably due to resignation rather than laziness or a desire not to upset anyone, for everybody knew full well that the most likely response would be a shrug with the word "Pazienza" and that no action would be taken.

After an hour, my own pazienza was wearing thin and I asked a clerk at a closed counter if she could tell me why, when there were so many clients waiting, only two counters were open. Her reply was,

"Ah, but there are three counters working. It's just that I have other things to do so my counter isn't open to the public."

Now, maths is not my strong point but two counters working and one closed equals two counters working, not three, or have I missed something here, dear reader?  In the end I gave up and went for a gelato.

ONLY A GAME



Everywhere I went on Saturday I was asked which team I would be supporting in that night's World Cup match and everywhere I went I was met with blank stares of incomprehension when I explained that as I am Welsh, not English, the England team's fortune or misfortune was of no interest to me. I didn't have the heart to add that I don't care about sport anyway!

At midnight, in a good old British "if you can't beat 'em, join 'em" frame of mind, I decided I might as well watch the game, which I did with my twitter feed open, and at first I was puzzled at the number of comments disparaging the Italo-Argentinian player Gabriel Paletta, as his name had been notably absent from the Italian commentary. Upon further investigation, I discovered that the Italian tweeters' enthusiasm to get him off the pitch had nothing whatsoever to do with his footie skills;  rather, the poor man had offended their sense of style by combing his hair, somewhat ineptly, over his bald patch and this was earning him more derision than if he had missed a penalty!

One had to feel sorry for the England team's physiotherapist, who injured his ankle cheering and had to be carried off on his own stretcher; it was such a British sort of misfortune, somehow and the Italians were incredulous.  

When "super Mario" [as young Mr Balotelli has become again] scored Italy's second goal the bar opposite erupted and I'd have known what had happened even if I hadn't been watching the action on TV. And of course, at the end of the match it erupted again and over in Catania old Etna decided to join in.

A sour note was struck at around 2 am Italian time on Sunday, when Maurizio Gasparri, former Interior Minister under Silvio Berlusconi and currently Vice President of the Italian Senate, tweeted that his country had seen off the English, who are "pretentious arseholes." Now, I may not be English but I am British and I object! I have tweeted both Mr Gasparri and Mr Renzi to say so. In fairness, I should add that many Italians have also expressed their indignation and shame at this remark.

Whilst we are on the topic of Britishness, I have only one thing to say about Scottish independence:  if you do it, Scotland, it's going to be even more hellish trying to explain the concept of the UK - or what will be left of it - to Italians!


Saturday, June 14, 2014

SABATO MUSICALE

Il Volo are appearing at the Teatro Antico, Taormina on Friday and I really wish I could go! In their honour, and because there is a certain important football match taking place at midnight Italian time, I am posting their version of Italy's official World Cup song:

Il Volo - Un amore così grande
In bocca al lupo, l'Italia!
 Good luck, England!

Friday, June 13, 2014

SEMIFREDDO VARIEGATO



Another summer is upon us so there has to be a new semifreddo flavour from me!  Here's how I made this one:

First, line a long loaf tin with clingfilm. The clingfilm should come up over the sides so that you can fold it in once you have put your semifreddo mixture in the tin.

Now put 175gr digestive biscuits [or savoiardi if you can't get digestives] in a freezer bag, clip the top and crush the biscuits with a rolling pin until they look like breadcrumbs. Set aside.

Next, stone and halve about 24 fresh cherries and grate some dark chocolate - about 4 squares.

If you are in Italy, whip 500 gr panna da montare  to the soft peak stage.  If you are elsewhere use double or whipping cream.

Add all the other ingredients, plus a little Maraschino or kirsch liqueur if you wish, to the cream and stir well with a metal spoon.  Pour it all into the loaf tin and smooth the top with a palette knife.  Wrap it all around with more clingfilm and then foil and freeze overnight.

When you are ready to serve, the semifreddo should lift out of the tin easily if you wait about five minutes after taking it out of the freezer. Slice to serve and decorate with more cherries.


Wednesday, June 11, 2014

IT'S IN THE CARDS - 2

Two years ago, I wrote that Italy had gone loyalty-card mad and now it is even more so. The latest company to join the trend is a coffee-maker, so now you get your little card stamped every time you have a coffee in the bar.

I must say, I was quite cheered to get a free tin of coffee this morning, especially as it came in one of those nifty new wine chiller bags. Now, in the unlikely event that I manage to down another 30 coffees before the end of the month, I get an espresso cup and saucer......


Tuesday, June 10, 2014

SUMMER TIDES - 2

On the day after Reuters reported that Italy had saved 5,200 migrants in the Mediterranean since Thursday, in Sicily we're just surprised that anyone is surprised and the story is not even making the headlines. Italy, I repeat, has been carrying out large-scale rescues for months and asking for help from the international community for years.

Three migrants were reported dead yesterday and these poor souls, it now transpires, lost their lives in an incident which happened near the Libyan coast in the morning, when a Maltese tanker called the Norient Star was trying to help a dinghy carrying 107 migrants. As the larger vessel edged nearer to the dinghy to carry out the rescue operation, the dinghy, which was already in a poor condition, hit the boarding ladder. This caused a hole and the dinghy started to deflate, then capsized, throwing the passengers into the sea. Some migrants managed to save themselves by grabbing the ladder and others were rescued but three drowned and two are missing. A Maltese guard ship had also been near the scene prior to the accident, but its crew had thrown life jackets to the migrants and then left the scene to take part in another rescue operation. There is no implication that this affected the outcome of the dinghy incident and the investigating magistrate from Ragusa has in fact ruled it out. 

Last night the Norient Star brought the 102 survivors and three bodies to Pozzallo, where the Mayor and a young Protezione Civile representative laid flowers on one of the waiting coffins. Mayor Luigi Ammatuna said he wanted to be a "mayor of life, not welcoming corpses but people full of hope who want to change their destiny."

A UN spokesman has apparently said tonight that Italy cannot be left alone to deal with the current volume of migration from North Africa and that an international response is needed. Words, words, words - how many people have to die before humane international action is taken?

Saturday, June 07, 2014

SABATO MUSICALE

It's official:  Suor Cristina Scuccia, the "singing nun" from Comiso, is "The Voice of Italy." Here is one of the songs she sang in this week's final:

Suor Cristina - Life is Beautiful That Way

Friday, June 06, 2014

LEARN ITALIAN IN SICILY!



At London Town, Modica - Centro Linguistico Internazionale we are very happy to be able to announce that, in partnership with Vacanze Craunari, we are offering Italian courses this summer:

Italian for English Speakers
€450,00 per person

Course dates:
30 June - 6 July
31 August - 7 September
7 September - 14 September

Price includes:
7 nights in a shared apartment
12-hour Italian course
7 breakfasts

Services available upon payment of a supplement [must be pre-booked]:
Lunch
Dinner
Airport or port transfers




If you are already in Modica or have planned your trip and would like to learn Italian, London Town, Modica - Centro Linguistico Internazionale also has the following summer offers:

ENGLISH SPEAKER IN MODICA?
LEARN ITALIAN THIS SUMMER!
Summer offers – courses from €160!

8-hour and 12-hour courses
July, August or September, 2 or 3 hours per week
Tailored to your needs
Minimum:  group of 2

36-hour course
July, August and September
Tailored to your needs
Pay for 2 months and get one month FREE!!
Minimum:  group of 2

Individual courses can also be arranged.

Call Pat at the Centre now!
[0039] 0932 905642  /  +39 366 119 6467



PARLA ITALIANO QUEST’ESTATE!





SPEAK ITALIAN THIS SUMMER!



Wednesday, June 04, 2014

OWN GOAL IN TAORMINA

As the Italy squad leaves tomorrow night for Brazil - where I understand a few footie matches are to be played over the next month - it is to be hoped that own goals will be avoided.

This, I'm afraid, was not the case in Taormina last weekend, when those who really want to destroy Sicily's tourism industry had a field day, leaving incredulous tourists gasping and swearing never to visit Sicily again. The cause? A new "rule" under which people wishing to visit the town's famous Greek theatre can only purchase entry tickets there if they happen to have the right money, namely eight euros. Change, explained a ticket clerk, curtly and in dialect, would not be given. When a Sicilian man in the queue protested, he was told that he could have a phone number which he could call to complain.

Come on, Taormina - end this farce now!

Greek theatre, Taormina

Tuesday, June 03, 2014

SUMMER TIDES

On the evening when the British press are carrying the story of the sheer numbers of migrants intending to sail for Europe this summer under headlines such as Looming Migrant Tragedy [Guardian printed edition for 3.6.14], I would point out that it is not "looming". There have been many tragedies already and Italy has been asking for help in this situation for years.

On the night of 31st May - 1st June alone, the Italian Navy and other agencies involved in Operazione Mare Nostrum saved 3,517 migrants from various boats that had got into trouble in the Mediterranean. Among those rescued were children and pregnant women, one in her ninth month, and two migrants in a critical medical condition. 

The primary departure point continues to be Libya and most of the migrants are of Syrian and Eritrean origin. In order to accommodate all the migrants, 500 had to be taken to Lampedusa, although the reception centre there has been closed, whilst 2,000 others were transferred to various other locations in Ragusa. A further 1,000 were taken to Augusta [Siracusa] on Saturday. 

With the weekend arrivals, the total number of migrants who have reached Italy since the beginning of 2014 is over 43,000, equivalent to the number of arrivals for the whole of 2013.

An Eritrean who had made the journey from Libya told La Repubblica that he had crossed the Sahara to get there, a journey for which he had paid $1,450, and that, once he arrived in Libya, he was taken to a warehouse where, with other migrants, he was closely guarded, practically starved and forbidden to leave. He then paid his captors a further $1,450 for the sea voyage.  Police in Ragusa have arrested five people traffickers, who are also accused of endangering the lives of their human cargo and of subjecting them to inhumane treatment.

Operazione Mare Nostrum, Italy's humanitarian mission to save migrants undertaking these perilous journeys in the Mediterranean, continues to come under fire from many quarters because people believe it may be encouraging people traffickers. Prime Minister Renzi has said that Mare Nostrum must continue but that the EU must ask the UN to intervene in Libya. He has also said that Frontex [the European border agency] should be used more effectively. Elsewhere the option of creating a "safe migration corridor" from Africa is being widely discussed and the UN is considering the creation of holding centres for migrants in Africa. The latter may not be possible, though, because of the human rights records and instability of some of the states which would be involved.

Politicians continue to talk, Italy continues to carry out rescue missions and to deal with their aftermath largely alone, the EU continues not to see and people continue to die.

Saturday, May 31, 2014

SABATO MUSICALE

This song has kind of grown on me. After all, any song associated with ice cream has to be all right!

Cornetto Cupidity Love Stories - Logico #1 di Cesare Cremonini

PORK CHOPS WITH ZUCCHINI

Last weekend, I hit upon the idea of combining good tomato sauce and Dijon-style mustard to cook with pork and this dish worked so well I'll be making it again tomorrow!

Thinly slice 6 courgettes and arrange them in a lightly oiled ceramic or Pyrex roasting dish. Finely chop two red onions and spread them over the courgettes. Season. 

Now brown 8 boneless pork chops - thin ones, like escalopes - in 3 tablesp olive oil. Drain them on kitchen paper, then arrange on top of the courgettes and onions. Add a handful of rinsed and drained salted capers.

Mix 330 g homemade tomato sauce or bought passata with a dessertspoon of Dijon-style mustard, some seasoning, a little paprika and a little dried oregano.. Mix well and pour over the chops.

Cover with foil and cook at 180 C for one hour.

Serves 4.



Thursday, May 29, 2014

ANOTHER FAREWELL

A multi-faith funeral was held in Catania yesterday for the 17 migrants whose bodies were recovered from the Sicilian Channel on 12th May and one can only hope that even the buireaucrats of the EU will be moved to act by the heartbreaking images of the coffins, including two small, white ones containing the bodies of children, placed side by side in the courtyard of the city's Palazzo Platamone.

Mayor of Catania Enzo Biancho said:

"Europe, faced with these coffins, must choose. We can lay to rest, in the always welcoming island of Sicily, these poor birds of passage, carried northwards by their instinct for survival.  We do this in this multi-faith ceremony, by which we set great store.  We accord these men, women and children who were in search of hope the greatest dignity as we bury them.  But Europe must choose - and must do so today - whether we bury with them our moral responsibility as civilised human beings."

The Italian military rescued 200 other migrants from the same boat but no one knows how many were lost.

May they rest in peace.

Wednesday, May 28, 2014

THANK YOU, MAYA

This poem has inspired so many women, wherever they are:

Maya Angelou - Phenomenal Woman



"I have reached the lovely age where I can admit that sensuality satisfies me as much as sexuality and sometimes more so."

"If it is true that a chain is only as strong as its weakest link, isn't it also true that a society is only as healthy as its sickest citizen and only as wealthy as its most deprived?"

"I believe that art encourages us to stand erect and stretch upward toward the higher ground."

All quotes from "Even the Stars Look Lonesome".

Maya Angelou
4 April 1928 - 28 May 2014


Tuesday, May 27, 2014

A PEACEFUL LUNCH

A lovely, relaxing lunch with friends in peaceful surroundings on Sunday:


Crostini with foie gras -  ages since I'd had the latter!



And more with gorgonzola and caponata.


Iced sweet pepper soup


followed by herbed chicken served with asparagus, cime di rapa and potatoes.


A British friend had made lemon drizzle cake


and I'd made lemon semifreddo [again].


It wasn't warm enough, by Sicilian standards, to eat outside but it was warm enough to have the doors wide open and enjoy this oasis of peace.


Grazie a tutti gli amici!

Saturday, May 24, 2014

SABATO MUSICALE

A departure from Italian music tonight, for this has been an emotional week for me. I can't write about it because there are others involved, but this is for someone who loved me:

Nana Mouskouri - Only Love ["Mistral's Daughter" theme]

Friday, May 23, 2014

IN MEMORIAM 2014




"Che le cose siano così, non vuol dire che debbano andare così. Solo che, quando si tratta di rimboccarsi le maniche e incominciare a cambiare, vi è un prezzo da pagare, ed è allora che la stragrande maggioranza preferisce lamentarsi piuttosto che fare."

"The fact that things are as they are does not mean that they must stay as they are. But there is this: when it comes to rolling up your sleeves and trying to change things, there is a price for you to pay and it is then that the great majority of people prefer to complain rather than do something."

- Giovanni Falcone, 18.5.1939 - 23.5.1992

In Memoriam 

Capaci Massacre of 23.5.1992:

Giovanni Falcone - antimafia magistrate

Francesca Morvillo - Giovanni Falcone's wife, also a magistrate

Rocco Di Cillo, Antonio Montinaro and Vito Schifani - members of Giovanni Falcone's escort


Thursday, May 22, 2014

BON ANNIVERSAIRE, MONSIEUR!

I cannot let today go by without marking the 90th birthday of a very special Frenchman whose songs have always meant a lot to me so bon anniversaire, cher Charles. I wonder if he knows that he achieved the greatest honour of them all last week - a mention on The Archers!

Charles Aznavour - J'ai vécu


Wednesday, May 21, 2014

LA PIZZA DI MERCOLEDI

Here's a delicious pizza topping which requires no pre-cooking and, as I invented it on a Wednesday, I might as well name it for that day!



As I've mentioned before, I use the pizza base recipe in Claudia Roden's original Mediterranean Cookery book, but only half the quantity.

When your pizza dough has risen - after about 1 hour - roll it out into a rectangular shape on a floured board. Pull it a bit with your hands to get it the right shape for a baking tray. Put it on a lightly oiled baking tray and spread the contents of a 400 gr tin tomato pulp on it. [You could use a thick passata if you cannot get this.]  Sprinkle over some seasoning and arrange 6 slices of Speck on top. Then add 100 gr chopped mozzarella [we can buy it ready-chopped for pizza here] and arrange 12 halved datterini tomatoes [or the smallest cherry tomatoes you can find] on top of that. Sprinkle over some more seasoning. Next, add a few slices of grilled red and yellow peppers [drained] from a jar of grilled peppers in oil and some drained and rinsed salted capers. Add another 100 gr chopped mozzarella and scatter over some torn basil leaves.


Cook the pizza at 180 - 200 C for 25 mins.  Decorate with more fresh basil leaves to serve.

Serves four very generously and probably six!

Tuesday, May 20, 2014

A NEW BROOM

Prices are creeping up in Sicily and last weekend I was horrified at the bill for my supermarket shop, even though the most exotic item on it was a washing-up brush. It was exotic, to me, because it's the first time, in nine years, that I've been able to find one here! I was amused at the attempt at translation on the label, where it was described as a "broom."


Monday, May 19, 2014

AN OLD STORY

At last! Someone has provided the Comune of Modica with the correct translation of "centro storico". I've been telling my students that "old town" is preferable to "historic centre" for years, but few of them have believed me. One of our local newspapers isn't entirely convinced, either but I'd like to assure them it's right. Long may the old town live on!


Saturday, May 17, 2014

SABATO MUSICALE

I like Negramaro's take on this famous song, which has been adopted by the Italian World Cup squad. I'm not posting the official video as it would probably get taken off if I did but it's fun and you can find it here. Hope this version stays on!

Negramaro - Un amore così grande 2014

"MASTERCHEF" IN TWO COUNTRIES



As regular readers will know, I have enjoyed all three series of MasterChef Italia and have written about the programme several times, the most recent post being this one.

It had been a long time since I'd watched MasterChef UK but this year - thanks to the wonders of technology -  I managed it and what a series it has been! Last night's episode from Barcelona was a joy to watch and tonight's final kept everyone guessing until the very last minute. For those of you who are not in the UK, the deserving winner was this lady.

I must say I found the series very refreshing and calm after the noise and clamour of the Italian version! That is not to imply that the contestants do not work flat out in the UK version, because they do. They just don't let their inner panic show and, although a few tears of relief and exhaustion are not unheard of at the end of particularly challenging rounds, emotion is largely contained.

The British contestants do not argue with the judges, make bitchy or near-racist remarks about each other, clap themselves or sulk and, strangely enough, the programme's twitter commenters do not generally tweet their observations about the contestants' or judges' appearance or clothes [and here I must confess that I couldn't help asking where Spanish guest judge Christian Escribà got his spectacles last night]. It would also be hard to imagine the UK judges throwing dishes they don't like across the studio, à la Joe Bastianich.

From watching the series, I have learnt that in my own country there is a fashion for "deconstructing" classic dishes, a concept which would be incomprehensible to an Italian, to whom a tiramisù, for instance, is a tiramisù and if it is deconstructed, it is something, or several things, else. The British cooks, inspired by some of their country's top chefs, also have a penchant for precariously leaning one piece of food against another, creating dishes with at least seventeen component parts [ or "throwing too much at a plate", as a series catchphrase goes] and for serving  dishes which consist of just one piece of pasta - beautifully filled, admittedly, but horrifying to an Italian cook.

On this programme, no one can pronounce pistacchio, bruschetta or gnocchi and chefs and voice-over lady alike have trouble with the concept that pasta types are plural.

But what has really surprised me is the extent to which the British chefs use their bare hands during the cooking process and in "plating up". [Incidentally , the Italian equivalent of this word, impiattare, has just entered the dictionary.] They even use their hands to press down food that is in a hot pan and there is never a catering glove in sight! Yes, I know you have to use your bare hands sometimes and my own mother used to say, "A good cook uses her hands" but there are some limits! I suppose this has struck me because Italians are very fussy about not touching food with their hands, especially when they're eating in public. If you are served a croissant with jam in a bar, for instance, it won't come on a plate with a knife and a little pot of jam; the jam will have been injected in and the croissant will be part-wrapped in a paper napkin  so that you don't have to touch it with your hands. The only exception to this "no hands" rule is, of course, pizza. 

Anyway, the British series is over for another year and I'm wondering who I can fall in love with now that lovely, knowledgeable chef John Torode and Cockney charmer Gregg Wallace will not be popping up on my screen on Wednesday - Friday nights. During the Italian series, you may remember, I was rather taken with Italy's "sexy chef" Carlo Cracco and I did start watching his Hell's Kitchen Italia series. I stopped, however, after an episode in which two teams of contestants were taken to a farm to "catch" the animals for the food they were to prepare. I do eat meat and that means I have to accept that animals are killed to feed me but I don't have to watch people making a game of it.

I have one suggestion for John, Gregg and the MasterChef UK team - next year, why not bring the contestants to Modica, the chocolate town?

Thursday, May 15, 2014

MORNING KISS

There's nothing like a Sicilian summer breakfast, especially when the gelato includes bacio flavour. I'm on the mirtillo juice, folks, because it is said to be good for the eyes!


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