Showing posts with label daily life. Show all posts
Showing posts with label daily life. Show all posts

Thursday, March 16, 2017

A CIVILISED STOP

A civilised stop as Bertie and I were on our walk the other day. I didn't ask for such a big slice, honestly, but it would have been churlish to refuse it once it was served, wouldn't it? And when you start to see borage in Sicily, you know that spring and the ice cream season are on their way!


Monday, January 16, 2017

CONTENTMENT IN SICILY....

.... is when, on a cold day, a supply of your favourite tea reaches your favourite bar!






Tuesday, January 03, 2017

UN PO' DI FILOSOFIA



"If you succeed in smiling 
as soon as you wake up, 
you're either a special person 
or you're a coffee."

- Seen at the Cicara Caffetteria, Modica

Monday, August 08, 2016

NAILING IT IN SICILY

You'll know when your nail varnish is good and hard and dry in Sicily because [especially if it's near lunchtime] your beautician will say to you,

" Signora, ora può impastare la pasta! - You can go and knead the pasta dough now!"


Saturday, August 06, 2016

MODICAN PHILOSOPHY

"Cry if you need to", said one friend here this week when I told her I was a bit down in the dumps, "but a good cup of coffee is better."

Photo courtesy of Cicara Caffeteria, Modica

"Cry if you need to, " said another, "but a nice plate of pasta is better".


"I'll cry if I need to, but a beautiful cremolata di gelsi [mulberry cremolata] is better",  said I.


Wednesday, October 14, 2015

CAPTURED IN MODICA

The other day I was with a student when I happened to look up and saw not one, but six worried faces peering in at my window.  Both student and I hurried outside to see what was the matter, by whIch time at least four other people had joined the impromptu party. 

But what was happening on the steps behind them? To my astonishment, I could see a tall, perplexed-looking gentleman in shorts who was obviously, given his blond hair and pallor - which admittedly might have turned an even “whiter shade of pale” after he had  been propelled up the steps by another posse of six – not Sicilian.  The posse stopped when they saw me and  gave the poor gentleman a little push towards me. 

“He’s English and he’s lost”, they explained to me in Italian.  I asked my compatriot how I could help him and he explained that he had just been standing in the street trying to get his bearings when the group of eager-to-help Sicilians had come up to him and gestured to him to follow them. He was then swept along amid much enthusiastic noise.  He said all he really wanted was a map and I conveyed this information to the “helpers.”  That did it!

“A map?” “Yes, a map!” chorused the ever-growing crowd.  Well, reader, why on earth would you want a map when there were all these locals ready to direct you [though not, of course, to anywhere you actually wanted to go]? 

“Yes”, I confirmed. “He wants to go sightseeing and he needs a map.”

There followed an extremely loud and excited confabulation about where our Anglo-Saxon wanderer should get his map and suggestions included the idea that he should go to Modica Alta [high above most of the tourist sights and difficult to navigate if you don’t know it, facts which, in the opinion of Modicans, make it much more interesting] because “my wife’s third cousin runs a newsagent’s there”. 


While all this was going on I, being a spoilsport, gave the stranger directions to Modica Old Town and also to the nearest bar, where I knew they had maps.  I must say he looked very relieved. No doubt I will meet him again one day, still dazed and hopelessly lost in Modica.

Friday, September 11, 2015

SIGNS OF NORMALITY

Marina di Modica


"I'm sad to be going back to university because it means leaving the sea", said a young man of my acquaintance the other day. There's no truer Sicilian sentiment than that and, as I managed to stop myself saying, "It's not forever", I reflected that it's rather nice to be so attached to your birthplace.

I would be the last person to deny that everybody needs a holiday but one of the difficult aspects about living in Italy is that here everyone takes it at the same time and for an extended period.  This results in some shops and businesses closing for at least four weeks in summer and when a shop or business provides an essential service, as a pharmacy does, this is inconvenient and bordering on mad.

However, there are some advantages to this quiet time in the city:  there is less traffic, you don't have to wait long in the places that are open, you are unlikely to receive cold calls and in my apartment block the lift is always available.  In fact, when people start to return, I come home and think, "Oh, what a cheek - someone's using the lift!"

Other signs that life is getting back to normal are:

These are coming to an end



but these are back:



Traditionally made ice cream will soon disappear from the bars but the fresh orange juice is on its way. No self-respecting Sicilian bar owner will serve orange juice in summer - imported oranges are just not deemed good enough and how right they are!  Yesterday I saw the first batches of autumn cotognata [quince paste] in the supermarket and frutti di Martorana in the pasticceria.

The Lidl leaflet has reappeared in the mailbox, the rosticceria has reopened so that the aroma of foccace  again wafts up the street in the evenings and on Wednesday we even had heavy rain [with floods in some areas].

Last but not least, at around this time in September the female population of Sicily collectively and telepathically decides it's cool enough to discard strappy dresses and the strapless bras it is necessary for those of us not related to stick insects to wear under them. With this decision comes true freedom!

The sea will still be there next year.....

Eloro


Friday, June 12, 2015

MELON MEDLEY

"Una busta, cinque euro; un assaggio, non si paga! - Five euros a bag and you don't have to pay for a taste!" calls the fruit seller from a lorry teeming with melons on a hot morning.

Then he carves off an enormous, juicy slice for me to try and even offers to carry a bag of six melons home for me if I buy them.  I was convinced at the first refreshing bite and, as he is carrying, I buy a bag of his potatoes as well.

I see that he is sold out by 10 am and the next day he is there again, with piles of large, shiny black cherries. ..... 







Wednesday, May 27, 2015

SWEET TALK



At long last I have Hope and Greenwood's delightful Sweets Made Simple book and am really looking forward to trying more of the recipes but first I have to equip myself with some liquid glucose, a substance I have never seen here, and, as Miss Kitty Hope emphasises so charmingly, a sugar thermometer.

The liquid glucose is not going to be a problem as when I asked where I could get it in the local pasticceria they kindly said they would give me some. The sugar thermometer, however, is proving more elusive and when I asked if they had any in a big electronics store that also carries kitchen equipment I was told,

"Oh, we don't have sophisticated appliances like that in Italy!"

I find that rather strange in the land of the espresso machine, Zanussi and Ferrari, not to mention world-renowned pastry-chefs and chocolate makers. I'm after a sugar thermometer, for goodness sake, not Bill Gates's entire stock of microchips! But I tried, Italy, I tried.....  

Now let's see what one of my favourite Italian Americans has to say about it:

Tony Bennett - Candy Kisses

Tuesday, December 02, 2014

THE PAJAMA GAME



Hello, folks.

It's Simi here!

The other day my mummy bought new fleecy jimjams but she's not the only one who likes them!

This is what I get up to when she's out. Hee-hee!

See you soon, fans.

Love,
Simi xx

Wednesday, November 12, 2014

A WHOLE NEW BALL GAME?

Mr Fabio Capello [the football manager who in 2007 promised to learn English in a month] has not been paid his salary in Russia since June.  He might, you would imagine, be considering his options by now but earlier this month he is reported to have said that he was only "getting near" the limits of his patience.

Pazienza, you see, is one commodity which is in plentiful supply in Mr Capello's home country of Italy [except on its roads] and it is Sicilians' favourite word. As Mr Capello is unlikely to be struggling to pay the rent, he is probably not as peturbed as you or I would be in the event of non-payment of salary but another reason might be that Italians regard such a situation as perfectly normal: every week here people from all walks of life go on strike, not for better pay, as in other countries, but because they have not received any pay at all, for months on end. Some even resort to hunger strikes.

All I can say, Fabio, is let me know when your pazienza finally reaches that limit; if you're at a loose end, I'll still be willing to be your English tutor - provided you pay me, of course. It could be a whole new ball game for both of us!


Wednesday, October 22, 2014

ON NOT BEING A DOORMAT

Once again, I am just back from a supermarket and once again, my pazienza has been sorely tried: This time it was a supermarket that I don't usually go to, but as they have certain offers on this week and a friend had offered me a lift, tonight I went there.

I hadn't intended to buy a doormat but I do need one, so when  I saw a very cheap and jolly specimen I picked it up, only to be told, at the cash desk, that it couldn't be sold until tomorrow. I asked why, in that case, it was on display and the response was a shrug. I asked for the manager, who only repeated that the item could not be sold tonight,"because it won't pass through the system" so I asked if it could be put aside for me until tomorrow. The answer, again, was "No". I found this unhelpful to say the least and I'm also British enough to expect to hear the words "I'm sorry" but what flabbergasted me was that my Italian friend thought it was all perfectly acceptable.

The first time I came to Italy, in 1969, one of the reasons I thought it was a wonderful country was that service standards were so high compared to those of the UK at that time. It remains a wonderful country in many ways and you can still find excellent service in some sectors, particularly in bars and restaurants, pasticcerie, small shops and when dealing with most craftsmen. But in the intervening years, the rest of the world has moved on where Italy has not and service standards in some supermarkets leave a lot to be desired. [I'm not even going to start on post offices this evening!]  This is sad in a country that was once so proud of its tradition of good service and in these economic times Italy cannot afford to be uncompetitive.

I have now decided that I am not going to be a doormat even if I can't get one and have just taken the supermarket chain in question to task on twitter.  Needless to say, no reply has yet been receieved.

Thursday, September 25, 2014

WHAT'S THE POINT?



Over the years, I've received some nice "gifts" through my supermarket's loyalty card scheme, including a battery-operated cheese grater, a coffee machine, china, bed linen, numerous saucepans, an onion chopper and a cake slicer that plays "Jingle Bells". Therefore I am sorry to see the "gifts" scheme go, and even sorrier to see what has replaced it.

Sometimes I think the Italian national motto should be, "Don't make things simple if you can make them complicated" and there can be no finer example than the new discount coupon scheme that replaces points and gifts. Here's what you have to do to get your €5 discount coupon:

Present your card at the checkout every time you spend so that you can get one "bonus" [instead of a point] per euro. OK. Then, when you've accumulated 200 "bonuses" you have to BOOK your discount coupon. Yes, book it! You get a receipt for the "booking" which you are supposed to keep and after a week you can collect your coupon - if you remember to ask for it before the expiry date on the receipt and can find the latter in the first place . Finally, if you spend €25 in one go, you  can use the coupon!

For goodness sake! Why can't the coupon just be automatically sent to customers' home addresses? Because it would be too simple, that's why! I give up, Italy.

Bring back the points and gifts, please! I could do with another fun cake slicer.....




Monday, September 22, 2014

VEDERE PER CREDERE

"Seeing's believing."



I've needed new specs for a very long time and on Saturday I finally managed it. I'd forgotten the world was three-dimensional!

Monday, August 18, 2014

A PATH FOR THE INTREPID

Last week, our street was closed for three days for lavori stradali [roadworks], much to the chagrin of my neighbours, who drive everywhere. [What anyone who was disabled was supposed to do during this period, I don't know - not go out, I suppose, it being assumed that they would have family to help them.]




The workmen helpfully cleared a pedestrian path around the hole



but the path came to an abrupt end here:




Several of my intrepid neighbours seemed to find clambering over the low wall quite normal





but take a closer look at the slope below it and you'll understand why I didn't take the risk!

However, I did make the acquaintance of several neighbours I hadn't spoken to before because they had never, to my knowledge, actually walked down the street and one day a kind workman carried my shopping right to the door.

Quannu a sorti ti voli aiutari, anfina a casa ti veni a truvari.
When Fate wants to give you a hand, it will come to your house to find you.
- Sicilian proverb

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

IT'S IN THE CARDS - 2

Two years ago, I wrote that Italy had gone loyalty-card mad and now it is even more so. The latest company to join the trend is a coffee-maker, so now you get your little card stamped every time you have a coffee in the bar.

I must say, I was quite cheered to get a free tin of coffee this morning, especially as it came in one of those nifty new wine chiller bags. Now, in the unlikely event that I manage to down another 30 coffees before the end of the month, I get an espresso cup and saucer......


Tuesday, May 20, 2014

A NEW BROOM

Prices are creeping up in Sicily and last weekend I was horrified at the bill for my supermarket shop, even though the most exotic item on it was a washing-up brush. It was exotic, to me, because it's the first time, in nine years, that I've been able to find one here! I was amused at the attempt at translation on the label, where it was described as a "broom."


Friday, February 07, 2014

A TO-DO AT THE DOCTOR'S



Having given in to la febbre on Wednesday, on Thursday I reluctantly took myself to the doctor's; "reluctantly" firstly because I'm British and we carry on and secondly because of the inevitable wait that the occasion would involve.

In my doctor's surgery there is a collection of numbered metal discs on a desk by the door and a notice asking patients to take one, but no one does as this would be too much like organisation and would also limit the possibilities of social discourse. Sicilians think it is much more fun, after you have passed the time of day with all your fellow-patients individually, to look around and ask, "Who's the last one?"  L'ultimo having piped up, you know who you have to watch, and watch is what you do, for no magazines are provided and no one takes along anything to read.

If, however, one of the "patients" is wearing a suit, sitting in a self-assured way and has a bulky briefcase at his feet, you know that your wait will be even longer than usual, for this is a pharmaceutical company rep and one of these gentlemen is allowed to go into the consulting room after every two patients.  This system seems most unfair to me when there is a roomful of sick people but "Pazienza - What can we do?"  Yesterday my heart sank when I saw not one, but two self-assured gentlemen with bulky briefcases in the waiting room and summoned my reserves of hard-learned Sicilian resignation.

Just after I had arrived, a couple came in and asked the usual question, "Chi è l'ultimo?" The elderly man next to me was about to say that he was when a woman dashed in and said the honour was hers, explaining that she'd been outside.

"If you're waiting you can't be outside", said the elderly man, continuing, with unarguable logic, "because inside is inside and outside is outside."

At this everybody except me - I still felt too ill - joined in, all at the same time, of course and one patient shouted,

"Anyway, how do we know you were outside?"

That did it!

"Are you doubting my word?" asked the young woman in a horrified tone.

"No", chorused the company, "we're just saying that inside is inside and outside is outside and you should be inside because how do we know you're inside if you're outside?"

By this time the wife who had started the whole thing with her question was on the phone to her daughter, relating the incident in even louder tones than the shouting and everybody else had turned to the person next to them for confirmation that outside was outside, an assurance which was given at full volume in every case. One of the reps had completed his sales spiel to the doctor, too and, when he left the consulting room, silence suddenly fell as we all held our breath for a fight over who would go in next - the elderly man or the inside-outside woman. But Sicilian chivalry won the day:

"Si accomodi, signora " ["After you"], said the elderly man with a dignified nod of his head, looking around as if it was the most obvious course of action in the world and as if he was wondering what we were all gaping at.

Just him and one more rep and I was in, too!

Wednesday, December 18, 2013

SIMPLE PLEASURES

As I've mentioned before, 2013 has not been a good year for me and I'll be jolly glad to see the back of it. For various reasons, there are a lot of things I can neither do nor have at the moment and in such circumstances, one sometimes loses sight of the things that are possible. So yesterday I reminded myself that a week before Christmas I can sit in the sun on a café terrace and enjoy the juice of a Sicilian orange and some handmade biscuits.



I still love you, Italy!

Saturday, November 16, 2013

"O, MACHINE!"

"O, Machine!" exclaims Vashti in E.M. Forster's short story The Machine Stops and I must admit, that is how I felt when my repaired fridge was delivered back to me the other day. 

I am old enough to remember a time when the domestic fridge was deemed an innovation but I don't really remember how my mother kept food cool before we had our first one. We did have a pantry and that helped and as, until I was nine, we had a sweet shop, my Dad used to plonk scoops of ice cream from the shop freezer into glasses of lemonade in summer - much as Sicilian bar-keepers will offer you a scoop of granita in your cold tea on the hottest days.



As far back as the Greek era, Etna snow was being used to cool wine and that must have been lovely provided you had servants to go and fetch it for you. Rich Victorians had daily deliveries of ice but how did the less fortunate manage? It is important to remember that food shopping for more than one's daily needs is a fairly recent development and there are still countries today where not even staples are stored in the home. Those who dwelled in the countryside often grew vegetables and raised their own livestock but, in places like Sicily, meat was considered a luxury. When it was used, it was often washed in milk and boiled several times.  

The stone houses which many Sicilians lived in were cool and then there were the myriad means of preserving food, above all, in olive oil but also by salting [the technique of salting fish was brought here by the Arabs] spicing and using sugar [also brought by the Arabs] in sweet preserves. Some food was kept in cellars or even nearby caves and there were also ceramic water coolers. Those lucky enough to live near a lake or river sometimes kept food in it in well-sealed containers, too.

All of this sounds quite exhausting so I'm off to coo, "O, Machine!" to my dear old fridge once again before bed.


I

Counters


View My Stats