What with all the Ferragosto inconveniences last week, I found myself much in need of comfort food and what could be more comforting than mashed potato? In this heat, I also wanted something cold so I was pleased to find a recipe for a cold, mashed potato zuccotto in this month's La Cucina Italiana. The potatoes are mashed with olive oil, seasoning, grated lemon zest, basil and parsley and the filling contains chopped, roasted tomatoes, chopped rocket, chopped green and black olives and, in my version, capers - these last for no better reason than that I like them. [I substituted them for the onion in the recipe.] The sauce around the zuccotto is the sieved juice saved from the tomatoes as they were deseeded prior to roasting. A good old British pudding basin was called up for zuccotto mould duty.