My new blogging friend Nanni kindly invited me to the nearby town of Scicli on Sunday night so that I could witness the remarkable festa there: it is called Gioia [Joy] or L'Uomo Vivo [The Living Man] and, as Nanni says, it is unusual in Sicily in that it truly celebrates life, not death.
The statue of Christ is brought out of its church at 13.00 and again at around 23.00 and young men carry it around the town shouting "Gioia!", hotting up their pace with every turn of the square that they complete and stopping now and then to make the statue spin round at terrifying speed. God help you if you, or your car, happens to get in their way, for they stop for nobody and nothing and, as Nanni, says, should they knock you down, they are not going to get all British and apologise ; they will just keep going!
When Nanni and I first arrived at the church from which the statue was to be carried, at around 11pm., the young men were "revving up" and practising their shouts of "Gioia". Nanni said, "Oh, they are calm at the moment" and I thought , "If that's calm, what happens later?!" I soon found out and, as the statue was carried round, to clamourous movement, fireworks and applause, Nanni kept telling me to stand well back from its path. "I'm frightened of these people", he explained at one point. I thought, "If you're frightened and you're from here, Nanni, I'm right behind you!" [Note that I did not say "beside"!]
This festival really does celebrate new life and part of its purpose is for the young men carrying the statue to be seen by the young women and to be able to demonstrate how strong and virile they are. It also allows them to let off steam and it seems a much better way of doing so to me than going to a football match for the express purpose of having a fight!
As you see from the pictures, everyone in Scicli came out to enjoy the festa and enjoy it they did. Good for them, say I! Nanni has a video of the proceedings over on his site which is much better than anything I could manage, so I urge you to take a look at it. You'll be amazed, as I was! Grazie per la bella serata, Nanni.
13 comments:
How lovely that you got to go with Nanni and have lunch at your friend Linda's. So pleased you had a good time.
Hi Welshcakes - I was beginning to wonder if you were still celebrating Easter, but glad the internet crisis is over and you are back in our midst. Loved Nanni's video, I've read about the Scicli Gioa and it was wonderful to have the opportunity to have a glimpse of all the jollity. I love the feste, such spirit and vibrancy. I mailed him with a big ringraziamento - hope that wasn't too forward(!) and thank you to you for sending us there. Easter here was marked by perfect weather. with our village church full of flowers, the bells ringing (I'm a bell ringer) and needless to say roast lamb for Easter lunch - sadly no colomba but excellent chocolate from Rococo, and, just to make you drool, some v good cheese from Neal's Yard!
How joyful and wonderful is that?! A real celebration of life.
Oh my goodness! The guys in the second-to-last picture are wearing the Gotti-boy spike hairdo.
I thought that silly thing was only in the U.S.
That's certainly a different festival and better for it. I watched the video first and thought to myself they still have lots of young people in this town. Then I read your post and realized why they were up front and centre.
Regards
jmb
That was very nice of Nanni to invite you along with him, Welsh. So much better to enjoy such moments with someone who is able to explain all the finer points to you. :)
I watched his video. It was nice. I can see how you don't want to get run over.
Hi, Anne. Yes, I was very lucky to be invited to both occasions. Hi, Sally. I'm sure Nanni will be delighted to have heard from you. Glad you enjoyed the video. That's a lovely description of your Easter and you're right - I am drooling! Hi, Liz. Great, isn't it? Ruthie, I had to look up the Gotti Boys but now I see what you mean! Jmb, yes, looking at that you would never think Italy has a birthrate problem, would you? Hi, Lee. I wouldn't have felt safe on my own there! [I'd have got in the way of the statue!] It was, indeed, very kind of Nanni. Hi, Steve. Yes, you have to keep back!
What a fabulous experience, and great pics too for night shots, you must be Sicily's most famous photogrpaher. And interesting to see the boy as have similar spiky hair with tramlines that is fashioble over here.
Thank you for this... You always put us right in the action. uona Pasqua! ~M
Thank you for posting such beautiful pictures. I have always felt that Easter is about rebirth and fresh beginnings.
Hi, Ellee. I think they think, "oh, no, it's that mad woman with the camera again!" Thanks M and Shani.
What a great Easter celebration, with fireworks and everything--and the statue was enormous! Nanni's video made it almost look like Disneyland with the band and the electric lights.
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