Sunday, January 11, 2009

A TRIP TO CALTAGIRONE


It occurred to me the other day that it is many years since I have visited the "ceramics town" of Caltagirone. It is about an hour and a half's drive from here in the Catania direction but not easy to get to by public transport. I mentioned it to Rosa, who immediately exclaimed, "But my husband will take you anywhere you want to go on a Sunday!" Thus it was arranged. [I paid him, of course, as he usually does casual work on Sundays. He said he much preferred the idea of an outing!]

So this morning the three of us set off in jovial mood, with the car stereo playing cheerful Greek music. It crossed my mind that here I was, a Welshwoman in Sicily, in a car with two Albanians with whom I speak Italian, listening to Greek lyrics. That, to me, is what Europe is all about - or should be.

How, you may ask, did Caltagirone become the ceramics capital of this side of Sicily? It seems that there was already a ceramics industry there at the time of the Arabic invasion and the Arabs taught the local craftsmen techniques such as glazing. The town's name derives from Arabic and means "Castle / Fortress of Vases / Genies".

Arriving at our destination at around 9.15 am., we hurried towards Caltagirone's main attraction, La Scala, a monumental stairway built in 1608. In 1954 local artists decorated the 142 steps with ceramic patterns which were used as far back as the tenth century. This stairway is illuminated for 25th July, the day of the town's patron saint, San Giacomo. On either side of the stairway you can see craftsmen at work in their shops, as you can all over Caltagirone. Here are Rosa and Fulvio [both have Italianised their first names] on the stairway:

And Rosa and me:

A detail from the steps:
There are ceramics everywhere in Caltagirone:


Many of the craftspeople make cribs and the figurines for these. I have always loved the way that, in Sicily, the onlookers at the Nativity are portrayed as ordinary, local people of a century or so ago. This must make it easier for children to identify with the story and also enable people to feel closer to their religion. There is a presepe [crib] museum in Caltagirone and here is a crib from one of the shops we visited:


I would have liked to have purchased the central figurine in this shop window but I couldn't afford it, nor would I have room for it. Fortunately for me, the shop was closed!

The same goes for these owls in their little dwellings. [Owls are a symbol of good luck in Italy.]


Here is a detail of the Cathedral façade

and the bell tower:

The municipal park has this lovely gazebo. In 1693 much of Caltagirone was destroyed by the famous earthquake and the town's reconstruction left many irregular corners. However, that is not the reason why this first picture is slightly wonky; I was taking it using one hand whilst holding on to Rosa for dear life with the other, as if I absentmindedly step back to focus a photo I still fall over! [I don't know how to "unwonkify" it.]



The park is really very pleasant with some attractive vistas:



And my purchases? Well, I like lemon squeezers

and I have long coveted one of these. [What is it for?]

For stacking your plastic beakers when you entertain your hordes of friends and relatives!


Here are the links to some shops we visited as you can view their wares on their sites better than in any photographs I could take:

Vincenzo Velardita
Ceramiche Conarce s.r.l.
Brillantino

I liked Caltagirone very much on my first trip there and I like it even more now.

21 comments:

Cat said...

This brought back some wonderful memories for me. I went to Caltagirone a few times when I was in Sicily and was fascinated by the predominance of the blues and yellows in the colours of the ceramics. I have lots of photos of those stairs too..

Thanks for sharing!

CherryPie said...

Sounds like a really fun day out, it looks a fascinating town. I wouldn't have been able to resist buying owls to add to my collection!

Portlandier said...

The most beautiful lemon squeezer I have ever seen!

sally in norfolk said...

Always great to have a day out with friends.... and what a great lemon Squeezer too :-)

Rowena said...

Oh how much I enjoyed this post! The ceramics are all very beautiful, but it was that lemon juicer and the owls. And yes, that is what Europe should be about. Will have to mark Caltagirone as a potential destination in the future.

Claire said...

kissa:Caltagirone looks a fabulous place to visit. Love the owl pots and of course the lemon squeezer. What a staircase! Thanks for sharing this encahnting place with us and hello to your Albanian friends!

lady macleod said...

HOw fun! Thank you for the tour! and lovely photographs as always. he he, that's some plastic cup holder you have there my friend - always a woman of style...

Whispering Walls said...

Gosh WL, you look very gaunt. I do hope you're feeling better.

Welshcakes Limoncello said...

Hi, cb. I'm so glad the post brought back good memories for you. I love the blues and yellows, too. Hi, Cherie. The owls would have been hard to resist had that shop been open! Thank you, Miss B. I am getting rather attached to it! Hi, Sally. Yes, it did me good. Glad you like the squeezer. Thanks, Rowena. I'm so pleased that you liked the post. You would love Caltagirone! Hi, kissa. Glad you like the look of Caltagirone, too. I will tell Rosa and Fulvio you said "hello" - they will be delighted. Thanks, Lady M. Yep, use your plastic beakers in style, that's what I say! Welcome back, WW . Yes, I lost a lot of weight. But I do feel a lot better, thanks.

Anne in Oxfordshire said...

Wow what a fun day out you had. How great to go with friends who could take you too!

I love your new lemon squeezer..oh and the details on the steps are fascinating!

Yes that is what Europe is all about..also as you say should be!!

Dr. Christopher Wood said...

I'm lost for words (doesn't happen often), what sheer beauty. How so different from home (Wales and USA).

jmb said...

I never visited this lovely town on my trip to Sicily but it does look like something one should not miss.

Thanks for sharing your trip with us Welshcakes.

Whispering Walls said...

That is good news - I hope 2009 will be one of excellent health for you

Gledwood said...

o wow that's the sort of place I'd love to live...

Welshcakes Limoncello said...

Hi, Anne. Yes, it was great to have their company. Glad you like the lemon squeezer, too! Hello, Dr CW. I am so pleased that you like the look of the place. My pleasure, jmb. You must put Caltagirone on your list for your next visit! Many thanks, WW.

Welshcakes Limoncello said...

Hi, Gleds. Yes, you would have a good time there and they might make one of those owlhouses for the hammies!

Damon Lord said...

Wow - beautiful. Sometime late 2009/early 2010, my wife (to be) and I are planning on travelling around Europe; she was thinking Paris, ad I was thinking Germany, but I'm going to have to start thinking/researching Sicily on the sole basis of how beautiful this blogpost's pictures are of the town!

Bella Baita Marla said...

Wonderufl outing and love the pottery!!!!!!

Welshcakes Limoncello said...

Hi, Damien. Do think about Sicily - there are so many unspoiled, beautiful places to visit here!

Kathleen Gwinnett said...

Thank you for posting the story and beautiful images of your trip to Caltagirone. I almsot got there on my last visit to Sicily. Must do it on my next trip.

Welshcakes Limoncello said...

Hi, Kathleen. Glad you enjoyed the post. You would love Caltagirone!

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