Sunday, December 16, 2007

BUONGIORNO TRISTEZZA

Poor, embattled Italy: the government is, as always, tottering on the brink of collapse; the north is paralysed by snow as I write; a truck drivers’ strike has caused chaos for most of the past week; and on Thursday the New York Times reported that Italians are the most depressed people in Europe. This has really ruffled the feathers of some politicians and newspaper columnists!

“Depressed”, of course, is not the image that the rest of the world has of this mainly sunny land where you find what is, arguably, the best cuisine in the world. “Depressed” is not the word that comes to mind as you watch Italians go about their daily business: observe them proudly wearing the latest fashion, adjusting their already perfect shop window displays, chattering in any bar, interacting with children or simply being themselves and you cannot help admiring their tolerance, openness and seemingly relaxed ways.

They have a “summer culture” of stopping work and transferring their whole lives to the sea which has led me to believe that their young people, in particular, have a wonderful existence. Yet does it mask something? An unwillingness to compete with the rest of the world by working flat out, 24/7, may be a healthy stance but is it realistic in modern times? The close-knit family life that many Italians have is the envy of Britons yet this, too, may not be all it seems: is the unmarried son or daughter who lives at home well into his / her thirties or beyond and who never travels afraid of the world outside that cocoon? Surely Italy needs its young people to be dynamic, given its ageing population?

Some time ago I concluded that what I find myself at odds with so often is basically a culture of acceptance, both of the status quo and of unfavourable situations; a prevailing mind-set of “It’s always been like this so that’s the way it always will be” and “We can’t do anything about it” . Strangely enough, I was using an article about Jane Tomlinson’s posthumous award as a reading text yesterday with a private student. When we discussed Jane’s brave efforts to raise money for cancer research, my student’s reaction was that such a negative situation is rarely turned into something positive here. Earlier this year I was talking about the McCann case with a friend whose reaction to the “Find Madeleine” campaign was, “ Why? They won’t find her now”. [This was right at the beginning.] “But they’ve got to do something!” I cried. My friend looked at me incredulously. I wonder how much of this “acceptance culture” is due to the influence of the Catholic Church and how much is a philosophy learnt the hard way by a nation that has seen so much" triumph and disaster"? I note that Beppe Severgnini is quoted at the end of the NYT article: “The [Italian] malaise is: 'I can see all that but I can’t change it. ' ”

Never mind, Italy: exasperating as you are, this ex-pat still loves you! Have a better 2008, my beloved, adopted country.


15 comments:

Shades said...

Que Sera, Sera...

I don't have the rich perception of the place like you, having only visited the industrial north a few times. I got the impression they were (mostly) happy with their lot.

jmb said...

Very interesting post Welshcakes. I would not have said they were depressed in my experience (although it's a while since I've been there) but they are certainly hidebound in tradition and not open to change. I also find them quite critical of many things that are different. Their first reaction is no, not why not, as in North America.

Maybe young people don't want to work hard these days but Italians who run businesses work incredibly hard in my opinion, especially retail businesses. The corner bar is open such long hours each day and in big cities they don't necessarily do the lunch break.

I think the Italians are very accepting of things as they are. Now that they travel so much you would think that they would want the inefficient ways of doing things changed, but it appears they compartmentalize these things.

The family is another story. I think the family dynamics are very strange with the adult children not really allowed to be adults, even when they leave home and have homes of their own. Lots of control comes from the central family office.

But how could you not love the place and the people?

Leslie: said...

I am totally surprised at this post as I, too, had the impression that Italians are happy, open, tolerant people who are very proud of their culture. Also, I recently read "City of Fallen Angels," by John Berendt, the story of the fire which destroyed La Fenice, on Jan. 29,1996, and of the subsequent recriminations, investigations, indictments, and its rebuilding. The fact that the Venetians struggled so long and hard to replace the famous structure kind of goes against your comment about Italians being basically a culture of acceptance, both of the status quo and of unfavourable situations; a prevailing mind-set of “It’s always been like this so that’s the way it always will be” and “We can’t do anything about it.” But then again, maybe Venetians are different. No matter what others say about Italians, my personal experience (little though it may be) is that they are the friendliest, most accepting people I've ever had the pleasure to meet. I met Italians from all walks of life during my time there, from the local farmasista, and rivenditore, as well as a well-known contessa. And I will return one day to experience more of what you refer to as that "sunny land where you find what is, arguably, the best cuisine in the world."

Jeremy Jacobs said...

Snow?

Just freezing in Est Finchley

Wolfie said...

Its little different in Spain although they hide this attitude from the casual observer. There are things that Southern Europeans will stand and fight for but there are also many important things that they acquiesce to with impunity.

I don’t think it was always thus, I see this as a problem that started post-war and has gradually coalesced into a general malaise.

GP said...

Another fascinating post Welshcakes. I'd like to agree with everyone (including you) who's pointed out that the Italians are some of the nicest people on Earth but yes, thinking about it, there is an air of resignation to many people. I suppose the chief difficulty is that with such an unstable government for so long, any expectations of change really are pretty unlikely to be fulfilled. Maybe Italians aren't fatalists, just realists.

Welshcakes Limoncello said...

Hi, Shades. I think, on balance, that they mostly are for few want to live anywhere else, although they have enforced emigration, of course. Ciao, jmb. I agree that they are not open to change or things that are different. You can see this in their unwillingness to try foreign foods, for instance. I think retailers work hard [except in summer!] and bar owners in particular work incredible hours. Their acceptance of inefficiency just amazes me! I agree about the family - very strange to us. But also agree with your last sentence! Hi, Leslie. I really must read that book - it sounds fascinating. Maybe the Venetians are different as it is amazing that their lovely city survives at all. I would agree with you that Italians are friendly , although sometimes when you settle here [which is, of course, different from being a visitor] you have to get past certain "barriers". But if you speak the language and are interested in the food it doesn't take long! Hi, JJ. No snow down here but it's raining and cold - and of course they're reluctant to put the heating on in most places! Hi, Wolfie. Yes, the south is different and I would agree with you about them fighting for some things and not others. I also think that post-war chaos has a lot to do with it. Thanks, UPM. Yes, an air of resignation is so often prevalent. I think this is partly to do with climate down here. I would agree that in some ways they are realists, expecting governments to fail, etc, yet, as I've before, they can be proud of having maintained a democracy since the end of WW2. Oh, now the sun is out - as jmb says, how can one not love it here?

James Higham said...

You didn't mention the flour crisis here, Welshcakes.

lily said...

Us Italians are NEVER embattled! What the non-italian do not understand is that we have mastered the art of survival and unlike the UK we have to figure out our own strategies because the State doesn't wipe our backsides. Anyway I would not advise anyone to try and figure us out.........you might get a migraine! Depressed? Not seen anyone in this state around me for a while, we have been to busy to assess the vino novello to bother.........(smile)

marymaryquitecontrary said...

I love Italy. I love Italian design. I love Italian food. I like Italian people. I love the Italian sun. I love Italian coffee. I love being in Rome; so I threw a coin in the fountain; I will come back. Politics and depressed people! Well living in Northern Ireland, I try not to take an interest in it. Every country has it's problems.

Welshcakes Limoncello said...

Hi, James. I forgot! Ciao, Lily. Fair enough. Hi, MM. Yes, there is an up side and a down side everywhere but I like to analyse these things.

Crushed said...

The malaise that sustanis all bad systems, the belief that the individual is powerless.

Welshcakes Limoncello said...

Exactly, Crushed.

Whispering Walls said...

One of the main problems is the endemic corruption and the fact that the coalition style of government means that it's very difficult to make sweeping changes. They need a Giuliani character who can take a firm stance. Do you think that the unification of Italy has been a success?

Welshcakes Limoncello said...

Hi, WW. Yes, I do, on the whole for at least Italy has been a democracy since WW2, with no dictatorship period, such as in Spain. It might actually be healthy to keep chucking out your government! Corruption, of course, is an enormous problem here.

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