Well, here is the post some of you have been awaiting for the past [almost] four years! Why have I got around to it now? Because a new commenter of mine, Andrew Scott, who has an interesting blog, asked me a few weeks ago whether it is true that Sicily is entirely controlled by the Mafia and I decided that he deserves an answer:
First of all, let me make it clear that I am talking about Sicilian Mafia here, not Calabrian 'Ndrangheta or Neopolitan Camorra. I cannot tell you that the Sicilian Mafia does not exist because of course it does. Nor can I tell you that it is not extremely nasty, for we all know that it is. I am no apologist for the organisation but I will say that there are criminal organisations in all countries. The trouble is that in Sicily every crime is attributed to the Mafia.
The Mafia differs from other crime associations in its "swearing in" and so-called "family" structure. But surely every nation's criminal organisations reflect or mock the society that allows them to flourish?
First of all, let me make it clear that I am talking about Sicilian Mafia here, not Calabrian 'Ndrangheta or Neopolitan Camorra. I cannot tell you that the Sicilian Mafia does not exist because of course it does. Nor can I tell you that it is not extremely nasty, for we all know that it is. I am no apologist for the organisation but I will say that there are criminal organisations in all countries. The trouble is that in Sicily every crime is attributed to the Mafia.
The Mafia differs from other crime associations in its "swearing in" and so-called "family" structure. But surely every nation's criminal organisations reflect or mock the society that allows them to flourish?
Does the Mafia impinge upon the everyday life of ordinary, hardworking Sicilians, then? Indirectly, in some areas of Sicily, probably yes, in that it can affect the type of politicians who gain power and thereby the kind of services the populations of certain comuni receive. But politicians in a number of countries not so far from Italy also have unorthodox ways of acquiring funding, power and influence.
Whilst we are talking politics, let us not forget just who helped reestablish the Mafia's power after World War II, for it wasn't the Sicilians and it wasn't the Italian government. Whether accidentally or not, the Allied liberators of Sicily handed the Mafia local power on a plate and this has been well documented.
In Midnight in Sicily, published in 1996, Peter Robb describes a Palermo which falls silent at night, its citizens just melting into the shadows, for
"Nobody wanted to be a witness. You might as well be the victim."
Things are very different now, however, and Palermo is lively and happy at night, just like other Italian centres of art and culture. The Mafia was for a long time an attitude of mind, existing because it was allowed to, but this mentality is changing. These changes were prompted by two events above all others: the sickening murders of the anti-Mafia magistrates Giovanni Falcone and later Paolo Borsellino in 1992.
In 1997 the director Roberta Torre made Tano da Morire, a film which makes fun of the Mafia. Such a project in Italy would have been unthinkable during the previous decade. Confindustria, the Italian Employers' Federation, has threatened to expel members who pay the pizzo - the word comes from Arabic jizia - or protection money, to the Mafia and shops stocking only "pizzo free" goods have sprung up in cities like Catania. Small steps, you may think, but they are significant.
Modica is in the Province of Ragusa, which is known as the safest in Sicily and it is said that no one pays the pizzo in this area. Indeed, there is said to be no Mafia activity at all in the Province. All I can tell you is that people live normal, happy, family lives here and that I have never felt threatened in any way.
Sicily is not the Mafia, any more than the London of the 1960s was the Kray brothers. The Mafia is entwined in the island's history, yet it is but a thread in a rich and complex tapestry.
Simm'a Mafia from Tano da Morire
Whilst we are talking politics, let us not forget just who helped reestablish the Mafia's power after World War II, for it wasn't the Sicilians and it wasn't the Italian government. Whether accidentally or not, the Allied liberators of Sicily handed the Mafia local power on a plate and this has been well documented.
In Midnight in Sicily, published in 1996, Peter Robb describes a Palermo which falls silent at night, its citizens just melting into the shadows, for
"Nobody wanted to be a witness. You might as well be the victim."
Things are very different now, however, and Palermo is lively and happy at night, just like other Italian centres of art and culture. The Mafia was for a long time an attitude of mind, existing because it was allowed to, but this mentality is changing. These changes were prompted by two events above all others: the sickening murders of the anti-Mafia magistrates Giovanni Falcone and later Paolo Borsellino in 1992.
In 1997 the director Roberta Torre made Tano da Morire, a film which makes fun of the Mafia. Such a project in Italy would have been unthinkable during the previous decade. Confindustria, the Italian Employers' Federation, has threatened to expel members who pay the pizzo - the word comes from Arabic jizia - or protection money, to the Mafia and shops stocking only "pizzo free" goods have sprung up in cities like Catania. Small steps, you may think, but they are significant.
Modica is in the Province of Ragusa, which is known as the safest in Sicily and it is said that no one pays the pizzo in this area. Indeed, there is said to be no Mafia activity at all in the Province. All I can tell you is that people live normal, happy, family lives here and that I have never felt threatened in any way.
Sicily is not the Mafia, any more than the London of the 1960s was the Kray brothers. The Mafia is entwined in the island's history, yet it is but a thread in a rich and complex tapestry.
Simm'a Mafia from Tano da Morire
15 comments:
Very interesting. I don't hear much about the Mafia in thiscountry any more. I'm sure they're still around, but probably not as powerful. When Iwas growing up in a suburb of NYC there would often be news stories about the Mafia.
Interesting report. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
This was a fascinating post and I do believe that times are changing. Interestingly, I was once told by an historian in Ragusa that the province of Ragusa has always been Mafia free because of its history, the way the economy developed, and the fact that the area always supported an even stronger matriarchal society than other parts of Sicily. The movement to refuse to pay the pizzo is growing stronger; there was a piece in the weekend press in the UK a couple of weeks ago about an embryonic travel company in Sicily who are organising holidays using nothing but providers and services that do not pay the pizzo.
Well written, Pat and very pertinent. As you say, every country has it's criminal organisations..."a rose by any other name"!
Great post. If you do not mind it, I will mention it on SicilyGuide with a link to it. I always like your take on Sicilian things. Thanks.
Interesting post! Political favors exist everywhere.
Not much in the way of organised crime here - no mafia or anything like that. no need for mafia free shops etc....
Thanks, Betty. I think they are less powerful, too. Thank you again for the question, Andrew. Thanks, Sally. That is interesting information. Thanks, Lee. You are right. Hi, Sicily Guide and thank you. I am more than happy for you to mention the post on your excellent blog. Thanks, lakeviewer. You are right.
Thank you for explaining that, it is intersting :-)
I did read Midnight in Sicily, and was that ever an eye opener! I've read Beppe Grillo blog and he's is a big supporter of the battle against corruption and financial scandals. Great post, Welsh!
Thanks, Cherie and Pink. I am a fan of Grillo's.
I must say I felt very safe in Sicily and never thought about the Mafia until a fisherman had his boat burned near Taormina while I was staying there. Apparently he had refused to pay the pizzo, according to the rumour. Who knows the truth of it all?
buying a house in modica hopefully this week contract will be presented. would love to talk about modica. how can we communicated
joe g
after spending a week last year in palermo and then 5 weeks in modica you can be sure that the Mafia is invisible to tourists and most local citizens. Not only did we not witness any activity but to the contrary Sicily is so nice that we anticipate purchasing in Modica. Tuscany has its great points and sites but really Sicily is the real italy.
Hi, jmb. Who, indeed? Not only crime but every single thing that goes wrong in Sicily gets attributed to the Mafia. Hello and welcome, joe G. I agree with you that Sicily is the real Italy. I will email you.
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