SATURDAY SURPRISE

It's always nice to have a freebie, especially when you are not expecting it. So I was pleased when the greengrocer threw in this generous bunch of parsley yesterday.

VERDURA

Fruit and vegetables on display outside a small greengrocer's in Modica Bassa this morning:

Above: There are carob pods in the basket on the left.

Above: French beans are very popular here. I was amazed to see a woman inspecting a whole boxful of these by running them all through her fingers in the market on Thursday . No one chided her for doing so or for not having a pair of plastic gloves on.

Above: oregano is sold in dried bunches, as in the box. Sicilian oranges are just coming into season.

DAILY DOINGS - 12

Well, it all happened this morning: first the speedy-stair-and-landing cleaning duo arrived at around 8 am [the crack of dawn to me] driving Simi into a frenzy of barking and toy-shaking. No sooner had she and I settled down after this than the water lorry arrived - not before time, too, as the cisternful we bought 2 weeks ago was about to run out. I am assuming, therefore, that the new gara [competition] for the delivery contract has taken place and that it has been awarded to the same companies, as this refill was brought by the same driver who always came before. Then, about half an hour later the buzzer went and it was the man from the electoral office, bearing my smart electoral paper, duly stamped and signed by the all-important commissario straordinario.

Out and about later, I saw that our local greengrocer had cavagne [receptacles used to store ricotta cheese in times gone by] and traditional brooms hanging outside. I asked if I could take a photo and the kindly owner insisted on taking one of me holding some as well!

Our lovely mini pears and plums are back, a sure sign that the summer is under way.

The last two photos show today's complimentary nibbles at the Altro Posto and what I call a "real" ice lolly - a heavenly nero Perugina with tangerine sorbet in the middle.

What more could a girl want to start the weekend?

THE OX'S HEART

What a voyage of discovery a trip to the greengrocer's still is! I had never seen this variety of tomato - cuore di bue - before. I am assured that they will make a fine tomato salad. They smell very - well - tomatoey!

A STROLL ALONG MY STREET

Come for a walk with me along my street on this fine, Sicilian Monday morning. Last week's bad weather has disappeared, spring is in the air and there is a spring, too, in my step. [There certainly wasn't last week, the dampness having triggered an arthritic flare-up so that by Thursday I could hardly walk!] Today I am going in the opposite direction to the one that leads to the Via Sacro Cuore with its fashion stores and beauty salons and I am making for the small supermarket at the far end of my own street.

On Monday mornings all but food stores, newsagents, ironmongers, stationers and florists are closed, but that does not mean that the shopkeepers are not working: some can be seen out and about doing their banking, whilst others are attending to their artistic and perfect window displays.

Passing the fresh pasta shop, I smell the dough that will soon be turned into a myriad varieties of Italy's staple food and through the window I can see tubs of bright red 'strattu on the counter. It is a little early for a queue of customers here, but in another half an hour they will come!

The wine merchant's is open and he is standing outside in the sunshine, enjoying a chat. A notice in his window announces the arrival of the new Frappato. In this shop you can take your empty mineral water bottles to be filled with a more Bacchic liquid and you can taste before you buy.

As I walk, the scent of fresh pastries wafts towards me on the breeze: I imagine sugar being sprinkled over hot biscuits and I catch just a hint of vanilla. Then, as I reach the corner of the side street where Caffè Moak has its premises, the aroma of good, fresh coffee is almost overwhelming.

The supermarket resembles an early incarnation of the genre in Britain: narrow aisles, a black and white check vinyl floor which needs replacing and untidily stacked shelves. But I find what I need and the women pack for me and are so obliging that not even the layout there can irritate me today.

On the way back, at the larger greengrocer's they are still setting out the newly delivered goods. The bananas look startlingly yellow and are hanging from a column; enormous, bright green grapes have just arrived and sacks of dried chickpeas and other pulses are stacked beside the door; above them there are boxes of fresh dates. One thing that strikes me about Sicilian greengrocers is that the price labels nearly always tell you which town the produce has come from. Come to think of it, it is usually labelled thus in supermarkets as well. I cannot resist looking in on our newer greengrocer's at the other end of the street and today his trestle table is groaning under the weight of what looks like several tons of fava beans, quite possibly the first vegetable known to man and the true herald of spring in Sicily. The greengrocer himself is busy hacking artichokes off their stalks, watched by a group of men [ and the men are incredibly discerning food shoppers here, as I've mentioned] who are waiting to see what will arrive next. The little old gentleman in a wheelchair who always greets me kindly and asks after Simi is there, too: he seems to spend most of his day there, chatting to the owner and watching the world go by.

11.30 and in the café opposite they have decided it is time to set out their arancini [stuffed rice balls] and scacce [focaccia breads] on the hot counter. I can smell them from over the road and soon you will see many Modicani stopping off there and then hurrying home with their well-wrapped antipasti. Shall I buy some? I think I should.... something fresh and warm to celebrate the freshness of spring...

In the salumeria another group of men is waiting, this time for the midday delivery of fresh bread. The first delivery arrives at 6 am., the owner has told me, and then there are several further ones throughout the day. None of these customers is going to go home with the bread of a few hours ago!

Well, I have everything so it is time to go home now. On a day like today, just a little stroll like this will remind me that there is still so much to see and marvel at right on my doorstep and that I am, after all, in the place where I want to be.

A GOOD BUSINESSMAN

On Saturday I bought some fruit and vegetables costing, in total, €2.60 from our nice greengrocer's. I had the 60 centesimi in change but otherwise had nothing smaller than a €10 note. The greengrocer, having no change either, did not rush over to the nearest café to get some or wait till another customer arrived with some; instead, he just thrust the goods into my hands and said that it didn't matter. When I went over today to give him the €2 he looked at me as if I was mad and seemed about to faint from shock! His gesture has, of course, ensured him my trade for evermore.